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T1 bass body

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Post by Iceman Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:10 am

Barry wrote:Oooo, I'm liking it already. bounce

Nipples getting hard in anticipation. Razz

TMI, Barry..... T.... M.... I.... No

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Post by grogg Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:33 pm

Westbone wrote:Sorry grogg but I prefer the grain on the back. The front looks like different pieces of timber which I thought you were trying to get away from.
Like the way you did it keeping the centre.
Me too for the back, but the veneers I had werent wide enough, only had about 1mm of margin on fitting this.
The front isnt different pieces but its what I think is a natural flame statement, might not work but hey ho.

What is tmi?


Last edited by grogg on Wed Mar 21, 2012 3:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Frenchy Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:04 am

Too Much Info..... :bball:

Looking good, great work,,, What a Face I actually like the wood grain more and more.... cyclops
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Post by grogg Sat Mar 17, 2012 7:12 pm

Ah thank you.
Finished staining this am, will post pics, when more sober.
Went to game and what can I say but bloody brilliant.
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Post by Westbone Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:57 am

Well done Wales cheers
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Post by grogg Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:11 am

Heres red and light brown plus sanding.
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0211
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0212
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Post by grogg Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:19 am

And dark brown (mahogany) on the edges.
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0213
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0214
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What do you guys think? I like it but it is dark on the edges and a bit more burst perhaps or just go with it and varnish?
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Post by corsair Sun Mar 18, 2012 9:43 am

Looks good.... with the middle stripe, a burst may look a little busy? Nice colour...
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Post by Barry Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:23 pm

corsair wrote:Looks good.... with the middle stripe, a burst may look a little busy? Nice colour...
What Johnny said.

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Post by grogg Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:42 pm

It does have a slight burst of the red but think I might stop fiddling with it now and get on with it.

Anyone got a spare neck?
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Post by Westbone Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:51 am

Looks a lot better with the stain.
A slight fade in to hide the veneer edge as you've done looks good.
Fender necks fit.

Makes me want to finish the Thunder I started last year, just too busy at the moment.
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Post by grogg Mon Mar 19, 2012 5:42 pm

Ta,
Will have a look at Fender copies or just hang around until something shows.

Have been thinking about replacing the black plastic (pups and rear cover) with machined brass.
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Post by Barry Mon Mar 19, 2012 8:42 pm

grogg wrote:...Have been thinking about replacing the black plastic (pups and rear cover) with machined brass.
Have a look here and saver yerself some grief: LINK
I bought a set of the chrome ones and they're first rate.

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Post by EvilVOG Tue Mar 20, 2012 11:51 am

grogg wrote:It does have a slight burst of the red but think I might stop fiddling with it now and get on with it.

Anyone got a spare neck?

Try the pawn shop maybe? I was up at one this weekend (ever heard of "Hardcore Pawn"? It was that one) and they had a handful of instruments you could pick from for $35. Couple basses in that pile.
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Post by grogg Tue Mar 20, 2012 4:56 pm

Evilvog, wrong part of the planet for me.
Couple of coats of varnish, the grain hasnt lifted as much as I thought.
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0216
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0217
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Post by grogg Tue Mar 20, 2012 5:03 pm

Barry wrote:Have a look here and saver yerself some grief: LINK
I bought a set of the chrome ones and they're first rate.
Ta Barry,
These guys look good but I meant these bits:-
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0218
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Post by grogg Tue Mar 20, 2012 5:33 pm

grogg wrote:Couple of coats of varnish, the grain hasnt lifted as much as I thought.
Depends what angle its looked at, comes to life with lighting and at a different angle but my photo skills not up to it.
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0220
This shot also shows a bit where I made a mistake on the stain.
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0219


Last edited by grogg on Wed Mar 21, 2012 3:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by EvilVOG Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:12 pm

They don't have pawn shops there?
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Post by grogg Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:21 pm

Oh yes, pawn shops and gold recovery are the boom business areas here it seems.
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Post by Barry Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:22 pm

grogg wrote:Ta Barry,
These guys look good but I meant these bits...
Oops, sorry. Wrong instrument altogether! Embarassed
She's looking beautiful! Lots of life in that grain now.

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Post by corsair Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:27 pm

I like it; less is more! Smile
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Post by EvilVOG Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:17 pm

lol well i didn't mean go to my pawn shop Very Happy Just meant check yours, maybe like mine they have some with damage, or nonworking electronics you can buy cheap that you can use the neck off of.

looking good, i was skeptical of the red at first but those last couple of pictures look great.

Wish i had a mill in my garage.
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Post by grogg Wed Mar 21, 2012 3:26 pm

Thanks guys, I think its looking nice, trouble is when youre the guy doing it your eye is drawn to hiccups whereas most wouldnt notice.

corsair wrote:I like it; less is more! Smile
That was good advice John.

EvilVOG wrote:Wish i had a mill in my garage.

Wish I had a garage, even the Mrs said "you need a workshop". Half the battle done there then.

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Post by Westbone Wed Mar 21, 2012 4:12 pm

Nice job grogg but still prefare the back, just do.
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Post by Iceman Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:29 pm

Lovely Grogg, just lovely!! king
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Post by Frenchy Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:05 am

Great work!.....

I would still give it a small burst to camouflage the demarcations a bit....
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Post by grogg Tue Mar 27, 2012 3:26 pm

Heres some shots when I thought Id finished lacquering but before polishing. Weather was lovely last weekend, still is.

T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0221
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0222

Then I used polishing compound but it went into the open grain bits of the ash and I couldnt get it out, also managed to ding it and rub through on a corner. Apart from that it looked really nice.

So today was reconciliation time, instead of setting fire to the thing have sanded down, touched up stain and lacquered again. Must say its looking better than the first run, it was in my stars to do this apparently. No photos of this yet.
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Post by grogg Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:18 pm

Forgot to mention for the polish, instead of a liquid compound, will be using 2000 grit paper. I thought 1200 was fine but have been exposed to a new world, a colleague has 12000 grit, yes an extra 0.
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Post by Iceman Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:15 pm

A bit of direct sunlight always sets things right. I think I'm in love... Shocked

Gorgeous gooey caramel. Why, you've got a Cadbury on your hands, grogg!! king cheers
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Post by The Chad Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:40 am

Great job so far, looking great in that sunlight! Nice and deep looking grain.
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Post by grogg Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:06 pm

Been toying with this idea today..
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0223
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Post by EvilVOG Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:15 pm

dooooooo eeeet.
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Post by Iceman Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:32 pm

What?? Couldn't track down the piece they cut out of the blank initially, eh?

Sloppy grogg, really a cut-rate job now... Laughing
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Post by grogg Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:47 pm

I know, better next time. Who they?
The thing I like is the way the shades/colours change with the angle its looked at. Anyways, still need a neck.
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Post by Iceman Sat Mar 31, 2012 9:56 pm

Nonetheless grogg we'll leave it with the following...


B
E
A
YOU
T
FULL


cheers


Last edited by Iceman on Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:15 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by hoax Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:05 am


Grogg

Add a little burst before you put on a final coat of lacquer. You know that in your heart of hearts you really want to!!

Hoax Wink
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Post by grogg Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:17 pm

Thanks guys, time to move on now. Ive really enjoyed the learning from mucking about with this. Will post some pics when its assembled, could be some time.
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Post by grogg Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:46 pm

Ok, did a swap with Westbone (prestige case for a loaded neck)
T1 bass body - Page 2 Thunde10

and thought I would stain the top veneer of the headstock to match the body.

After stripping, sanding and staining it all I did a really stupid thing. Put the water transfer logo on without sealing the stain (Hoax thanks for the artworks). Of course this made the stain run and look like merde. So I washed the surface to even out, put some stain back on to try and recover the situation but of course you cant get back to where you were.
So heres a couple photos of where it ended up so far, depends on angle of looking and light but in reality it is paler and either pinker or browner.
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0224
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0225
T1 bass body - Page 2 Dscf0226
Also lost the feathering I did around the edges. So am I just being really picky and thinking I should sand it back to wood and start again (might have to replace the veneer which is putting me off a lot) or is it looking ok?

Would welcome your thoughts.
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Post by grogg Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:46 pm

poop just noticed the bubbles under the transfer, off it comes then
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Post by grogg Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:51 pm

I didnt say poop I said sheet
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Post by hoax Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:06 pm


Grogg

Not only does the transfer need sealed, but so does the wood. Before you apply the transfer, the wood needs to receive a couple of coats of lacquer to seal it. I don't know if you did that, but it might explain the bubbles.

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Post by grogg Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:28 pm

I did that on this version, what about the shades?
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Post by Westbone Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:31 pm

You also need to make sure that the stain and wood is fully dry.
Leave it in a nice warm room for a good few days.
The moisture is deep within the grain, hence bubbles.

As nice as it's coming together grogg still gotta say it still looks like a timber joint on the front lower.
Which is what you complained about in the first place. Sorry mate just my humble opinion.
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Post by hoax Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:35 pm


Headstock looks a little light but if you can still stain it down a bit after it is lacquered. Just lightly rub some stain on, let it dry and apply more lacquer.

A very light rub though as the new stain will tend to dissolve the existing lacquer.

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Post by grogg Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:39 pm

Westbone wrote:As nice as it's coming together grogg still gotta say it still looks like a timber joint on the front lower.
Which is what you complained about in the first place. Sorry mate just my humble opinion.
I know, agreed, live and learn eh?
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Post by grogg Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:45 pm

hoax wrote:
Headstock looks a little light but if you can still stain it down a bit after it is lacquered. Just lightly rub some stain on, let it dry and apply more lacquer.

A very light rub though as the new stain will tend to dissolve the existing lacquer.

Hoax
The stains Im using are water based, you think thay will eat the lacquer? If so may get the bubbles out otherwise its aluminium oxide time.
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Post by hoax Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:49 pm


I do not think water based will eat the lacquer, only spirit based. If it the lacquer is dry, give it a little rub. Use a pin and prick your bubbles.

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Post by Westbone Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:55 pm

It needs to be fully dry before applying lacquer.
Considering you only got it(neck) on Friday. The water based stain has not dried out fully.

Water based stain on top of lacquer will not take at all.
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Post by grogg Mon Apr 23, 2012 6:25 pm

ok, ta.
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Post by hoax Tue Apr 24, 2012 4:07 am

Westbone wrote:It needs to be fully dry before applying lacquer.
Considering you only got it(neck) on Friday. The water based stain has not dried out fully.

Water based stain on top of lacquer will not take at all.

I haven't tried this with stain but I can tell you that water based lacquer will take to a previously lacquered finish.

If it doesn't work then just give it a little rub with some spirit based stain. You will have some lying around the garage or shed. Everyone does!

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Post by EvilVOG Tue Apr 24, 2012 12:35 pm

I think it needs a maple fretless board with walnut block inlays Very Happy
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