Westone Clipper missing some of the usual bits and pieces...

I'm going to list the parts below. Now, I know they are not available, but if you have any advice on suitable alternatives, I'll happily get the next best thing. 

The Clipper is missing the following from its Bendmaster Deluxe: 
– fine tuner thumb screws on the bridge (which I believe are M4 with 9mm heads, but I don't know how long they should be)
– the tremelo arm (of course), but I remember seeing a thread a while back about a possible conversion to use a FR arm. Of course, I didn't need one, then. 
– the locking nut clamps and screws (any idea of dimensions?)
– the back has come off one tuner (black), but I don't suppose that will affect the performance a great deal. 

Thanks in anticipation.

psafloyd wrote:I'm going to list the parts below. Now, I know they are not available, but if you have any advice on suitable alternatives, I'll happily get the next best thing. 

The Clipper is missing the following from its Bendmaster Deluxe: 
– fine tuner thumb screws on the bridge (which I believe are M4 with 9mm heads, but I don't know how long they should be)
– the tremelo arm (of course), but I remember seeing a thread a while back about a possible conversion to use a FR arm. Of course, I didn't need one, then. 
– the locking nut clamps and screws (any idea of dimensions?)
– the back has come off one tuner (black), but I don't suppose that will affect the performance a great deal. 

Thanks in anticipation.

Thought some of you may appreciate an update.

Have made a start on finding the parts. I know the it will take a 6mm trem arm, as I tried the one from my Aria JX-3. 

I found some M4 brass thumb wheels on Amazon with a 9mm head for fine tuners that fit beautifully. I rather like the brass – well my first guitar was an early Thunder I – so I'm going to keep it and have ordered five more to make up my six. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KJNF7PZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

For those who might want a colour match, I found these on Amazon, too. No idea if they're any good, but they are M4 and look to be the right size.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BQG2RRLY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ADFRM2EOXAU5Z&psc=1

The locking nuts are all based on the Floyd Rose style. Normal clamping blocks don't fit because the upper outer supports are not in the corners, but lower down, which is why the blocks have slope shoulders. 

I'd be happy to change the nut, but the screw holes are 17.5mm apart, as opposed to 14mm or 14.5mm (depending on whether a 42mm or 43mm nut).

Now, the locking nut on the 4112 on the website seems to have been changed as it uses standard clamp blocks. That or some models carried a standard nut. While I could file down the supports in the corners, I think I will try and file down the blocks, as that is likely to be easier. 

Anyway, I'll update this if I make any progress.

I have a set of the locking clamps if you still want them… you will have to make the clamp shaped shims that go underneath the strings yourself; I used 1mm steel strapping from triple dump wool bales…

corsair wrote:I have a set of the locking clamps if you still want them… you will have to make the clamp shaped shims that go underneath the strings yourself; I used 1mm steel strapping from triple dump wool bales…

Thank you. I could certainly have a go at it. They'd just need to follow the contour of the clamp bases, I suppose? Do you think it would need to be steel? I already have some brass shims and a roll for making shims, or might that be too soft?

I'll send you a DM.

Nope… anything 1mm will do, though aluminium or brass might allow the strings to press in a bit much and allow the guillotine effect…

… yes; the shims are clamping plate shaped…

corsair wrote:Nope… anything 1mm will do, though aluminium or brass might allow the strings to press in a bit much and allow the guillotine effect…

… yes; the shims are clamping plate shaped…

Does this help with tuning/intonation issues that might be arising from the awkward angle the strings enter the tuners after leaving the nut. I have a 1988 XA1440BK that came with the Black Tusq nut(I think) with the string locks and string hold-down bar just above, but angled below the nut. Is it possible to shim the string lock base up using 1mm to improve the string angle out of the nut? I'm just grasping at straws here trying to make my "recently pulled out of the closet after a decade in a hard case" playable again. I know my Bendmaster Deluxe is most of my tuning issue, but also trying to solve the nut/string lock assembly angle also. Thanks for any ideas or input!!!

Does this help with tuning/intonation issues that might be arising from the awkward angle the strings enter the tuners after leaving the nut

NO. Nothing to do with intonation, that's done at the bridge.

The angle that the strings leave the string lock and enter the tuners has no effect on anything. The string vibrates at the nut.

The shims are there to help guard the strings from being over compressed and "guillotined" on the edge of the string lock body. They do not affect intonation except to help stop the string going sharp from over tightening.

Is it possible to shim the string lock base up using 1mm to improve the string angle out of the nut?

NO. Shimming the string lock would not "improve" things.

It would make the break angle more shallow and ruin sustain and string stability.
It would also hamper correct string winding on the posts.

The break angle should be just fine as is.

It sounds like your problem is that everything is not set up correctly rather than a mechanical failure. But if you are confident that the trem and string lock is set up correctly and you're still having intonation/tuning issues, about the only thing left to check is the nut and saddle slots.

It's possible that dirt or corrosion can build up over time, especially if the guitar hasn't been played a lot. You might try cleaning and lubricating them to see if that helps.