Switchmaster dimensions

Hi. New to the site.

I have a Westone Corsair without its Switchmaster knobs. I also have a 3d printer. Can someone please measure a Switchmaster knob for me? I need the diameter of the base, the diameter of the top, and height. I can figure this out from pictures but it's easier if somebody just tells me.

After I make the model (which will probably take me months), I'll eventually upload it here, and maybe on Thingiverse. Thanks.

Hello Arthurpod and welcome.
Using a 3D printer is a great idea and I don't know that it's been tried before.

We've had at least one member mold and machine some replicas by hand with great success, but it was a labour of love and time consuming. As far as I know he's no longer making them but I suggest you attempt to contact TVill25 directly via his email and I'm confident he'll be able to supply you with some precise dimensions.

Have a look at This Post for contact info and history.

Best of luck with this project, and I'm sure you'll also find a few customers here!

I need a few, Tvill abandoned us... (are you reading this Tvill?!?!?!?  HELLO!)

Yeah, haven't heard from him in a long time.

Damian, do you have the dims perchance?

i didn't know the Corsair came with Switchmaster knobs.

these models use Switchmaster knobs (because they all have push/pull pots);
Spectrum, Dimension, Dynasty, Monark, Genesis, Pantera

Good point Mike, I was more focused on the 3D printer aspect and missed that.

Arthurpod, are you sure you are looking for actual Switchmaster knobs? These are unique to Westone, yes, but as pointed out, they were not original equipment on Corsairs.

some measurements from one of the replicas made by forum member Tvill

top diameter - 24.05 mm
bottom diameter - 21 mm
height - 15 mm

the replica knobs were made from molds of original knobs
they have the fluted sides, and the very fine concentric circles on the top, single indicator dot on top, set screw

Oooh... looking forward to watching this one unfold!!

You are going to document the process, aren't you, Arthurpod?!? :-)

The ones I got from Tvil were superb replicas, and were colour coded to a blue Spec GT and a red Spec MX and they look epic! I'll dig an OEM knob out and put the calipers over it for you...

Thanks for the dimensions. I hope to start this sometime soon.

I made a mistake in my original post. My guitar is a Concord, not a Corsair. Same body as a Spectrum or a Phoenix.

Does anybody out there know of a good 3d program? I hate all of the free ones I've tried, and I'm hesitant to pay for software that's probably just as bad as the freeware! Everything is either over-simplified for beginners or powerful but archaic and unfriendly.

sounds like you have one of the in-between models. haven't seen many of those around.
post up some pics when you can.

btw, where are you located?

Arthurpod wrote:...Does anybody out there know of a good 3d program? I hate all of the free ones I've tried...

I'm an old draftsman but I'm relatively new to the electronic 3D world. The only freebies I know of at the moment are ones you've probably already tried:
TinkerCAD
Blender
123D

To further complicate matters there's a 3.95mm(4mm) recess on the bottom.

It is a blue Concord SX. Just like this one:
http://www.westoneguitars.net/guitars/concord-series/concord-sx/

Thanks for the CAD info. You're right - I've already tried them all! Some of the mid-priced software has free versions. Maybe I'll try some of them.

I'm in central PA.

FYI, I also have a red Spectrum SX, a sunburst Phoenix, and an X695 bass (fretted neck only). I also have two other project guitars - a badly repaired but complete XV1 "Lady", and the neck and body of an X195.

Well.... I have a red MX, an XV-1 Lady, an X195 and a Spectrum LX Bass as well....

Love to see your Lady! According to Tom Presley there were less than 200 made so they are genuinely uncommon... great guitar, too!! Mine got a new paint job and some electronic refurbishment but was quite complete when I got it.

My X195 is as I received it from a very good friend in the US; it was one of his spare X195s and was "rode hard and put up wet"! One day perhaps I shall restore it but it plays well at the moment so I'll leave well alone!

Arthurpod... I'm in Harrisburg!  Where are you in Central PA?!  Message me.

Perhaps we could meet up, I'll let you borrow a switchmaster knob.  And play my Westies (or other guitars, I've a bunch of Electra's as well).

Just got back to this. Settled on Fusion 360 software (free version) and ordered the filament.

DesignSpark Mechanical is also good for beginners. It's simpler and faster but not as powerful.

Here's a handy dandy flow chart with software recommendations that I found:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:232578

Excellent! 3d printing is one of the most exciting things to come along in some time. I wish I was set up to try it.

I'm sure I'm not the only one cheering you on and eager to see the results.

Yeah!! Would love to get replacement knobs for my Thunder Jet.

Don't you just love it when someone else uses the Avatar you've been using for years.

Not kewl.

Quick update: I have the reel of black plastic, and I just bought another Westone (a gold Spectrum FX) and it has one Switchmaster knob on it. Maybe I'll have some time to do this over Christmas.

Excellent.
I'm getting all (Christmas) goose bump-ly in anticipation.

First attempt. There is a hole for the grub screw but you can't see it. I need to take this to work Tuesday and tap it. If it works I'll make more, then upload this to Thingiverse so everyone can make them.

It's a little tall, I can't figure out how to put flutes on the side, and I made it radiused rather than "cup cake" shaped. But it will be hard to tell them apart from a distance. That's the general idea. After all, these turn up on Ebay fairly often.

Hey not bad for a first attempt with a new technology!

The originals would have been molded parts, so the flutes would have been created in that process. I can't think of an easy way to add them in other than by hand. Perhaps a knurled finish might work like on the brass knobs but might be tricky with the draft angle.

With a bit of sanding to remove the layer lines, and perhaps a slight correction on the draft angle to make it consistant top to bottom, these start to pass muster! The grip surface can be experimented with.

Hey... Arthurpod... you said you were in Central PA, so am I.  Message me!

This is the best one beside an original. The original's on the left. From a distance, they're virtually indistinguishable.

Here's a side view. I haven't polished the sides yet. My copy doesn't have the 'flutes' but when it's polished it'll be good enough for me! I used an M3 set screw.


This is what the top looks like raw, unpolished.

Here they are, lined up from best to worst.

I'll upload the file to Thingiverse or something later so everyone can play around with them. Bear in mind that if you make one, 3d printed parts always require a lot of sanding or treating with powerful solvents to make them look presentable.

Hey, looking much better!
It seems there's just no way to avoid a lot of hand finishing, no matter what method you use.

Thanks for doing this. If you're interested in making some rough blanks for the membership I'm sure you'll have some takers, and no one would mind doing the fine finishing.

Here it is on Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2086828

You can order prints of it directly from them. They will probably turn out a lot better than what I get with my $200 Monoprice printer. Note: I get no money from this.

Well done Arthurpod! Thanks for investing your time in this and sharing the results.  

Thanks too for the reference to DesignSpark, I've downloaded their software and look forward to tinkering with it.

Just for the record, do you have any idea what Thingiverse.com might charge for copies? I'd like to sticky-fy this thread for future reference and the more info the better.