Thunder 1 Truss rod cover

I have a naked truss rod cover on the thunder 1 bass I recently bought off ebay and am wondering if anyone could send me a photo of one complete with the lettering so I can try and have a replica one made.
Of course, if you've just a spare one lying around needing a new home, that would also do me ; )
sarah

Hi Sarah, and welcome.
A lady bass player! EXCELLENT!!

I have a Thunder I-A guitar so I guess that's not much help, but I'm sure somebody here may be able to help you. Might be a good idea to let us know what year the bass is, eh?

I don't expect it would be too much different though, so if you need a guide to recreate one I'm happy to take a shot of it and post it here for you to use. Don't forget to post some pix of yer baby!

Hi Barry,

The bass is from '82. Sorry, should of been clearer, I have the truss rod cover, just the model name is missing. I need to find out what the font is and the sizing, dimensions, so I can have an engraver replicate the type face.
I might just cut a new piece of perspex while I'm at it.

sarah

It's a bit hard to see but here's a catalogue scan of the Thunder I bass to give you some idea. (I doubt that the font is anything exotic):
LINK

Ive got an 83 Thunder I-A, although the Westone logo changed that year I dont think the truss rod cover did.
Heres a pic of the cover, if yours isnt active just take out the "-A".

Looking at it now the font looks weird, its not camera distortion, just checked on the guitar. So I would say it is a bit exotic, who'd have thought eh?

The truss rod cover wording changed - prior to 83 it just said Thunder I / IA etc, not Thunder I Bass.

Thorn wrote:The truss rod cover wording changed - prior to 83 it just said Thunder I / IA etc, not Thunder I Bass.

Yeah youre right, the font was the same tho. I have a T1 6 string as well and thats the same font but different size, do you want a pic of that cos it might be closer to the original? We are getting picky now tho.

Picky, or accurate?

Picky.
Was giving the best info I have and photos of my guitar. If you have better please oblige the lady.

I think if you try and reproduce anything this old without font specs or measurements you're already heading for a large migraine headache.

Look, the one thing we do know for certain is that nothing was "etched" in stone and that Mats' specifications were always subject to change.
That even includes the font type and wording on small things like a truss rod cover.

For comparison, here's my '81 guitar:



As you see, it bears no resemblance at all to the font in grogg's picture above, which is an entirely different font, is italicized, and has some weird layout crowding of the "Th" (i.e., somebody messed up).

So, my recommendation is:
Spend a little (or a lot) of time online looking through available free fonts, and pick one that looks "close enough" to the style you want. (Most people do not have a discriminating enough eye to tell the difference.)

And in the final analysis if Uncle Mats couldn't decide what it should look like I wouldn't lose sleep over it!

Picky.

You say tomato...

Was giving the best info I have and photos of my guitar.

I do apologise if I have caused offence, that was certainly not my intention, I was merely trying to clarify what is needed. I appreciate that you are trying to be helpful, but the photos that have been posted in this thread while undoubtedly well intentioned are actually not much help in answering the original question.

If you have better please oblige the lady.

I don't think it's a matter of anyone doing better than anyone else. The original poster wants to make a replica of the logo on the truss rod cover of an 82 Thunder I bass. I can't see any room for 'better' in that, only a choice between the right logo and the wrong ones. If someone wants to make a replica, or 'have an engraver replicate the type face' then they need to see an original, not one from a different model, a different year with different wording in a different font and style and size, nor do they need to just pick a font that looks right...ish.

I can scan the relevant pictures in the 81 and 82 catalogues at a much higher resolution, but that's not ideal - would be better to get a scan of an actual cover if anyone here has an 81/82 Thunder I.

Hi guys,

Many thanks for all your comments.

If someone has a pre-83 thunder 1 bass and could send me a photo with the height and length of the text I'd really appreciate it. Then I'll just find a similar font and give it a go.

Will try a water slide transfer if I can print white on a clear sheet. Then bob's your uncle.

Sarah

Don't think me rude Barry, but how did you get your brass nut so shiny? Mine looks like it's been working down a coal pit! How do I clean it up? Or is it quicker and easier to just buy and fit a new one?
sarah

Barry wrote:
For comparison, here's my '81 guitar:

nunnelse wrote:Don't think me rude Barry, but how did you get your brass nut so shiny?...

Hi Sarah. I don't think you rude at all; we often talk about our knobs and nuts in here.

I think most of that shine you see is camera flash, but it is fairly clean nonetheless. When I got this guitar from a "heavy metal" player about a year ago it was pretty dirty, especially the fretboard. After the usual scrub down with mild dish washing detergent and toothbrush to remove the surface grease, I used #0000 steel wool to remove the crud and oxide from both the wood and the nut. Works very well. No need to replace it!

Some folks like to apply a touch of clear lacquer spray to slow the inevitable return of oxidation, especially on the knobs. Our Polly has a thread somewhere on how to do that if you're interested, just do a search and it should pop out.

Thorn wrote:......I was merely trying to clarify what is needed. I appreciate that you are trying to be helpful, but the photos that have been posted in this thread while undoubtedly well intentioned are actually not much help in answering the original question.

We already know what's needed thank you! Some of us are trying to actually help Sarah instead of debating semantics.

I can scan the relevant pictures in the 81 and 82 catalogues at a much higher resolution...

So do it and help out.

...would be better to get a scan of an actual cover if anyone here has an 81/82 Thunder I.

Well duh!

Matsumoku was notorious for its inconsistencies in both manufacturing specifications and marketing. You need to accept the fact that sometimes you can't always get what you want, and not everybody in these forums has the exact model that you're after. This is a forum of like minded people dedicated valiantly to saving and restoring and some of the best commercially made instruments in recent times. Whenever we can we try to add to the general knowledge base for future reference. It's nice to have the exact information but when you just don't have it what would you have us do, nothing?
Apparently.
At least Sarah now has a point of reference to work with, thanks to grogg's efforts to help.

Another way of putting that is - is it better to have the wrong answer than no answer? I think that generally it may well be better to offer no advice than wrong advice.


I've tried scanning the catalogue images at 600dpi but the truss rod covers are so small the results are really blocky, they're unuseable. I have found a scan of a replica cover (Forgotten I had it, you lose track after the first couple of thousand images), the scan and the dimensions of the text are available here

nunnelse wrote:Will try a water slide transfer if I can print white on a clear sheet.

Sarah

Unlikely, most printers (At least most domestic ones) can't print white, but you can get white images by printing on white decal paper, just print the black around the lettering

Thorn wrote:Another way of putting that is - is it better to have the wrong answer than no answer? I think that generally it may well be better to offer no advice than wrong advice.

No. What part of all the above did you not understand? This isn't Rocket Science or life and death. It is better to have something authentic than nothing at all. It isn't "wrong".

I have found a scan of a replica cover (Forgotten I had it, you lose track after the first couple of thousand images), the scan and the dimensions of the text are available here

After all your posturing and energy wasting rhetoric this logo is virtually identical to the one already provided, except for the A.

Note for Sarah's benefit:
In case you're not aware, the word "here" in Thorn's sentence is a hyperlink. Unfortunately it doesn't show as such with normal formatting in this editor.

Barry has a rare 5 string Thunder I-A. Just messing with you. The nut looks really clean in that pick, what did you use to remove the years of tarnish? Did you remove it or just clean it while it was on? I'm always afraid to use brasso or the like out of fear of damaging the wood.

boutjp97 wrote:Barry has a rare 5 string Thunder I-A.

You can have one too...all you need is a treble E string slot that's almost not there! And one of those "wonderful" barrel saddle bridges! The string just jumped off the fretboard and committed suicide! (I posted about it somewhere, if you're really interested)

The nut looks really clean in that pick, what did you use to remove the years of tarnish?

Nope, no replacement. As I said above in a reply to Sarah, all I did was use #0000 steel wool et vôila--shiny again! The steel wool is so fine that it doesn't damage the rosewood--just cleans it. (Um, you should oil it afterward though)

Barry,
Thankyou

boutjp97 wrote:Barry has a rare 5 string Thunder I-A. Just messing with you. The nut looks really clean in that pick, what did you use to remove the years of tarnish? Did you remove it or just clean it while it was on? I'm always afraid to use brasso or the like out of fear of damaging the wood.

To get the metal really clean youve got to take it off and give it some. Boutjp, youre post made me get the Session II out, lovely it is.

Hello chaps,

*********************************************************************************************************************** I've noticed a little bit of a confrontation between members arising in this thread and as you all know, I do not approve of this type of behaviour. Could I just remind all parties concerned (you know who you are!) to keep any objections or sarcastic remarks to yourselves from now on. Thank you!
***********************************************************************************************************************

Right back to the topic - Could someone oblige Sarah and post a clear picture of the trussrod cover as she requested please without any more arguments as to what font is what?
Barry already stated that little discrepancies here and there wouldn't be noticed and I have to agree. The font on the trussrod cover of my Clipper Six got accidentally removed when I wiped it over with a cloth which I had spilt Nitromors onto... oops! Anyway, it had obviously been a transfer of some sort and although the writing had gone, it had left a faint impression which I managed to paint over again. It's not perfect but a blind man on a galloping horse wouldn't notice it and no one else does either!

Boutjp, I have sometimes found it necessary to clean the nut whilst still on the guitar (because I couldn't get the bloody thing off!). I covered the upper part of the neck and the headstock in clingfilm and wrapped electricians tape around the plastic which basically masked everything bar the nut. This method worked well and protected the wood whilst I cleaned the nut. Hey Presto, shiny nut and wood untouched!

Polly

Hi Sarah.

I've been watching this post for awhile and thought it was about time I did something to help (or confuse!). These covers are all from 6 string guitars but as mentioned before, the early bass models did not seem to have the word "Bass" on the truss rod covers.

1, This cover is from my early '82 Thunder 1, finished in Sunset Red with a white scroll headstock logo.



I measured the letters and the capital T is 5.5mm tall by 4mm wide. The lower case letters are about 4mm tall by 3.5mm wide. All the letters are 1mm thick and the space between Thunder and I is 5mm.

2, This cover is from a late '82 Thunder 1-A active model.This guitar has a gold scroll logo an seen in the '82/83 catalogue.



As you can see this looks like the same font but it's actually slightly smaller. I guess this could be to make space for the -A active designation, but I don't know for sure. This time the T is 4.5 x 4 and the lower case letters are 3 x 3. As before the letters are about 1mm thick.

3, I doubt this will have anything to do with your 1982 bass but I've put this in for reference for anyone who is interested in this stuff. This is from my 1983 Thunder 1 with the W 'bird' logo.



This is completely different from the others, italicised with little flick to the tail of each letter. The capital is 6.5 x 4 and the lower case is 5 x 4. The letters are just less than 1mm thick.

For replacing the letters on your cover, there is a company called Letraset that make dry rub down transfers. I'm not sure if they would work on this textured matt finish plastic but it might be worth a look.

And just for the record, I always polish my brass nuts with Brasso wadding, it's a bit messy but they do shine up nicely with some vigorous buffing .

I hope this helps you. (And anyone else with the same problem)

DAN.

Nice one Dan, good stuff, my bass lettering must have been from the Friday afternoon shift, it was the 80s after all..

Thanks for all the tips on cleaning the brass. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread.