Trem advice

Ok, so I've picked up another guitar with a strat style trem (details to follow but it's not a mats). Thing is I don't use a trem, so I'm looking for advice on the best way to 'lock it down'. Sounds really good but palm muting is tending to throw it out of tune, so do I physically block it with wood or add springs, any advice welcome
Thanks

This will lock it down while leaving the bridge at it's normal angle. I think you can also set it to allow the trem to only pull up or push down as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tremol-No-Large-Clamp-Tremolo-locking-device-w-hardware-Allparts-BP-2006-010-/140870263385?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item20cc85a259

Just add some springs and screw it up tight. Or just screw up tight if it'll do it. The spring claw that is.

Easiest way.

Thanks guys, I like the idea of screwing it up, something I've got a natural talent for.

Is it a classic 6 screw trem or a floating trem. The classic type just needs the claw at the back tightened up, and you might need to add a couple of springs too. If it's floating trem then it gets slightly more complex plus there are a couple of different methods.

sarcaster wrote:This will lock it down while leaving the bridge at it's normal angle. I think you can also set it to allow the trem to only pull up or push down as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tremol-No-Large-Clamp-Tremolo-locking-device-w-hardware-Allparts-BP-2006-010-/140870263385?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item20cc85a259

The Tremolo-No is a good piece of gear if a tad pricey. It works as advertised but is only worth it if you intend to alternate between tremolo and hard tail use. Otherwise, screw it up as Damian suggested.

I think it's springs. Its a Sid Poole Cutlass and I don't want to mess about with it too much as its in really good shape apart from a few rusty screws. Absolutely cracking neck, very flat board great for bends, if I can sort out the trem issue this will be my out and about guitar.

Yep; just wind the bugger in and whack all 5 springs on it. If its a floater, then, if you're a bit handy, what you can do is weld a long bolt to the claw, and put the threaded end through a hole drilled in the block and put a nut on it! A guitar I bought some time had this modification, and I have to say, it worked a treat!

I've just shapes wooden blocks to fit around the trem block from the back

IanO wrote:I've just shapes wooden blocks to fit around the trem block from the back

That'll work too, but sometimes it's more bother than it's worth to cut and fit it, and it can still cause vibration troubles.

Tensioning the claw to the max offers a more solid solution short of welding it shut! I played my ST for years like that in the band and only recently reset it to working condition, which is the other good thing about it...it's easily reversible.

Just to add, I removed all springs so the string tension is adding to the pressure on the wooden blocks as wel as the interference fit (mildly oversized and "teased" into place with a "tickling iron" (hammer)).

Not had any noticeable vibration troubles and the "Warble"effect was what I wanted to get rid of.

Hope this helps

Ian

Don't know why you put this in the non westone section.

They're crackin' guitars and very well made with great necks.

Developed by FCN (UK importers of Westone) Sid Poole and Status.

This is the bridge you mention.

Can easily be 'flattened' with 3 springs, you might have to raise the saddles a wee bit.

Westbone wrote:Don't know why you put this in the non westone section.

Quite right; moved!

Thoughtfull cover on the back of these.

Just noticed this has only 2 springs and still locks down on the trem.

Thanks for sorting that.