... the x775 that turned into a project. HELP !!

So instead of posting in the members section as I intended here I am. Decided to make a project out this first.

Hurdle #1: A really, really well crud-ified fretboard.

Looked back through past posts on rosewood care and asked a couple of questions elsewhere on it.

Have tried the weak soapy water/toothbrush suggestion and so far the result is this....


Probably not the best lighting but it is only my phone camera...


I'm not quite sure what exactly the correct shade should be. There still appears to be buildup in the open crevices of the grain. Going over it with a light pass of Fiddlebrite afterwards is still gaining dirt on the cloth, or am I removing some sort of staincoat or finish that Mats put there??

Thinking of trying a petrol base distillate next unless I am already past that point? Chad suggested (and Barry seconded) #0000 steel wool as well. Can this be done with the frets on?

Frets themselves also have gained tarnish spots as you can see. Advice on shining them up without removal would be greatly appreciated as well.

Thanks Corsair for the "pick" hint. The fret edges are clean as a houndstooth.

Yes you can use the steel wool all over the fretboard--be sure and go with the grain, not side to side! That should polish the frets at the same time if they're just tarnished. If the frets are in need of more work, a cheap pencil eraser shield (thin stainless steel) placed over the fret for protection and some fine grit sandpaper #1500 or 2000 rubbed along the fret will quickly polish it up.

Do not use anything with petroleum distillate base, that will dehydrate the wood faster than anything, even commercial "lemon oil" has petroleum in it. The best thing to do is repeat the soapy water & toothbrush scrub. The bristles on the brush should be all you need to lift the crud out of the crevices. Dry it thoroughly with a clean cotton cloth and allow to dry. The Steel wool should be the last step. That will knock down and smooth out the raised grain caused by the water.

The final treatment should be with a good quality oil. I use Walnut oil (mainly because it's on the kitchen shelf!), while our buddy Racing swears by Almond oil. Apply several coats, with adequate time to soak in, followed by polishing (power polisher is best).

Naptha and/or methanol had been mentioned in post gone by. That is what I was considering next if another round of Murphy's Oil Soap still doesn't turn the trick.

I'm nor kidding when I say it was black with crud. A co-worker at the shop commented after it arrived UPS Thursay past, "I thought you said the fingerboard was rosewood, not ebony" and he plays guitar semi-professionally most weekends around our metro area with a rock band.

OK Barry, back to the toothbrush I go...

Barry wrote:Do not use anything with petroleum distillate base, that will dehydrate the wood faster than anything,

Absolutely!! Toothbrush - even a nail brush if you have a light touch, and warm soapy water ftw Then the steel wool!!

I use Lizardspit on my fingerboards...

Naptha is useful for certain cleaning problems, mostly metal parts. I wouldn't use it on wood for the reasons already mentioned. It can also be flammable and is a carcingenic too, so I'd stay well away from it unless you have the ideal environment in which to use it.

Stick with soap and elbow grease! Murphy's is also a good product to help with the cleaning.

corsair wrote:
I use Lizardspit on my fingerboards...

'kay. Murphy's, round 3 coming up.

What sort of lizards are on those isles anywho??

Well, the native ones are big green ones ... but this stuff I got in NZ and it was made in the US; great stuff, I like it a lot!

Hi Iceman,

I use a wire brush with fine brass bristles originally meant for suede shoes to clean my fretboards, if you can get one it's perfect.

If you go with steel wool make sure you cover your pickups, once the magnet gets a hold of them little bits of wire wool it's a bugger to remove, unless you like your pickups with afro's!

DAN.

The pickups are completely encased on 5 sides as you can see so stray wool fragments should be easy to avoid, but I will take extra care in any case.

Here we see what used to be white after the 2nd go-around. After round 4 the toothbrush bristles have weathered to a lovely shade of pewter...


On to the steel wool...

Beforehand...


And after...


So now to restore some luster and nourish it a little...


Just handle it a lot and allow my skin oils to work or the walnut/almond route or ???


Thanks for all the advice so far. Cleaning up the tailpiece and the saddle barrels are next...

What in the hell? It was supposed to be black, man! Factory dye job! Why didn't any of you tell him?

This one is a "x775" by the way...the x790 is a black four string...

Duly noted. Thank you S86. No model number on it anywhere so an incorrect assumption on my part. Editing engaged!

I am now on to cleaning up the hardware and wonder if anyone knows what material was used to make the tuning machines, switch rings, etc. The finish is black but has started to degrade or corrode in places. Surfaces appear pitted and white or crusted in places.

The retainer screw ring is painted or anodized black but a couple of minute scratches shine like brass is underneath. Any suggestions on how to clean this up or has anyone refinished these types of surfaces in the past??

Pics coming....




Yeee-ugggghh!