MY BLUEY TREM

Hi Guys & Girls,
My Spectrum LX Trem only bends down, is there a Westy that bends up & down aswell?
Cheers,
Richie..

Your bridge should sit horizontally even hovering above the body, where the front and back of the bridge sit with an even gap above the body. This will allow for it to pivot both upwards and downwards, unlike Fender trems which only allow downward motion. If your's is flat almost touching the body, it will only be able to tilt downward. Is that how your's is?

Yeah, Richie; sounds like it needs setting up properly, mate! Take a pic of as it is now and then we'll see what's what but I've got to say my LX will wobble both ways though I'm a bit careful going up as I reckon I could break strings doing that!! I'm not even all that keen on tuning to open E....

As Chad said, the bridge plate should sit absolutely horizontal to the body, which of course, will allow the thing to be bent back, increasing pitch. If it is horizontal and won't go back, then there is another problem somewhere...

The concept of the bridge plate sitting parallel to the body can be misleading.

If there is any neck pocket angle (and there is on Pantera guitars, Les Pauls, and many others) then the bridge plate needs to run parallel to the strings. This will not look parallel to the body.

But strats have no neck pocket angle, so their bridge plate mustl be parallel to the body to be correct.

If a tremolo will pull up or down, it is called a floating tremolo or floating bridge. If you float your bridge, the bridge plate must be perfectly parallel to the strings or you will never return to pitch. Even then, you may not always return to pitch correctly. For this reason, many people choose to block their floating tremolos so that they will not pull up. If you do this, and you do not have a bind problem at the nut, then it will return to pitch every time.

Very true!! Now, looking at my LX on the table in front of me, there would seem to be no tiltback of the neck so that's all "stratty"!!

The other thing about a floating bridge is something that colt has alluded to, and that is binding of the strings, not just at the nut, but the saddles as well, and then there really has to be as little friction as possible where the bridge pivots on it's 2 posts. I found that a little NutSauce on all of those binding points helped immeasurably on my MX, and the installation of a trem setter in all my guitars has made tuning stability problems a thing of the past.

Thanks boys, I will get some pics for you. Also I hope this Trem issue has nothing to do with the 12th & 13th frets picking up other frets which I noted in an earlier post & we came to the conclusion of some frets were higher than others.
Thanks for your time fellas & will be in touch..
Cheers,
Richie..

The first Bendmaster Deluxe I set up I used this youtube video, plus a chat with Westbone, who suggested a wood spacer, the guy in the vid uses a spoon :?:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1c-7-VMY_w

Thanks Fish you rock, you did not have to go to all that trouble mate!

I will take a little look... interesting info about the spring tension too.
Cheers for that fella,
Richie..

You know, I've never had any trouble setting up a Bendmaster and I knew nothing about them prior to getting my first Westone - a Genesis II in 2006 - once I'd had a yarn with colt, Thorn and another user on a previous forum. They're not tricky, per se, just fiddly; that said the video is a great way to short cut the mistakes I made getting to where I am now!!

Nice link!