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Jack Socket body repair advice required

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Jack Socket body repair advice required Empty Jack Socket body repair advice required

Post by Silverfox Mon Jul 07, 2008 1:52 pm

Here are a few photos of my Spectrum GT Bass...

link

The neck is in good condition and mostly the bodywork is fair but as you can see the jack socket has had some serious trauma...

Jack Socket body repair advice required 2008_07070010

Jack Socket body repair advice required 2008_07070012

Inspired by a lovely shiney black example I was looking at elsewhere on these forums I'm keen to get her fixed up. Obviously this is going to need to be repaired and the body refinished.

How do I go about repairing such a big hole?? I had considered just sticking a metal jack plate over it but I don't think I'd ever be happy with the result.

cheers

David
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Silverfox
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Post by corsair Mon Jul 07, 2008 6:16 pm

Two things, David - that colour is beauty, mate; I'd kill for a red one!! And that gouge shouldn't be that hard; take the surrounding area down to the wood, get rid of any loose debris and put a piece of rod the same size as the jack where the jack should be then fill it with lots of thin layers of a two pack resin - really packing it in! - until it is slightly proud of the body surface. Sand back, take to a competent car painter for paint matching and painting - job done! Smile
Someone did a job of work on it though, eh - looks like an extremely hard impact with something very solid indeed! Shocked
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Post by Silverfox Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:58 am

corsair wrote:Two things, David - that colour is beauty, mate; I'd kill for a red one!!

I'm afraid its too late for that red finish now! Shortly after I put that last post up I stripped the guitar down and took to the sander. quite scary! pale

Thanks for the advice on the repair. I haven't had much experience with resin fillers. Going to have to have a play. Would a resin repair alone be strong enough? The first photo (from the front) shows a kind of bendy cardboard disk that fits neatly into the circular recess shown in the second (from control cavity) picture. I was considering making up a wooden 'washer' the same size to glue in there then fill the gap above. I suspect the damage was caused by someone standing up while standing on their guitar lead and just pulling the jack socket clean out. I really should have spotted the plastic disk covering this repair on the photos before I bought it! Still, given me an interesting project!

As I was stripping the guitar I noticed a few things. I suspect the guitar has quite a bit of 'history'! Firstly, only one of the switchmaster knobs came off cleanly. With the other two an inner core remained very firmly attached to the pot spindle. trying to remove the core from the volume pot completely pulled the spindle out of the pot!! The one on the tone pot was putting up so much of a fight I was fearful of ripping the pot through the very very thin wood of the control cavity. I decided to take bold action a just hacksaw off the end of the pot Embarassed . I guess they must have been glued on for some reason. Looks like when it goes back together its going back with new electrics!!

I'm not sure if anyone has any experience of working on these basses? The pickups in mine (once I'd removed all the screws) were firmly held in place by sticky pads in the bottom of the cavity. Is this normal? On the bridge pickup the sticky pad was so strong it pulled the brass plate off the bottom of the pickup! I hope this didn't result in any damage to the delicate (and already joined) wiring inside. There was signs that both pickups had been reglued in the past too. Maybe repairs or maybe again just pulled apart during removal. Anyway, Guess I'm going to have to get them checked with the old multimeter and reglued prior to replacement. If anyone would like to see any photos of the insides of these pickups I can do this before I fix them up.


Cheers


David
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Post by corsair Wed Jul 09, 2008 7:15 pm

Mate, a resin repair done properly will be as strong as steel, and even if you do the wooden disc thing, you're going to have to use some sort of filler, eh! The close up of the damage seems to show a dished recess around the jack; I'm picking it got stood on by someone quite heavy!
Can't help with the switches or the p'up - I've never tried to get mine out (it was in mint nick!) and you're right probably - the knobs were probably glued on because they were getting sloppy - getting the pots won't be too much of a problem; getting the knobs, however... Shocked
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Post by Silverfox Thu Jul 10, 2008 4:59 am

corsair wrote:The close up of the damage seems to show a dished recess around the jack; I'm picking it got stood on by someone quite heavy!

I think you're missreading the photos a little bit. The outside surface around the damage is actually very flat. The circular marks you can see around the damage that make it look like a crater are just scratches caused by a plastic disk/washer that was used as a temp repair to mount the jack socket in. This disk was free to rotate a bit and hence the scratches

corsair wrote:Mate, a resin repair done properly will be as strong as steel

So then, could I perform a completely resin repair then simply drill out a hole for the jack socket? How think would the resin filler need to be?

Cheers

david
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Post by corsair Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:15 am

Yep, I think so as long as the surfaces that the resin will bond to are clean and debris free! It should only need to be as thick as the wood was originally but remember to build the layers up slowly and work it into nooks and crannies; ie many thin layers are much better than a few thick ones, and be sure to follow the instructions - I did the 'bloke' thing once and just powered into the job and completely screwed it up due to NOT reading the instructions first!!
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Post by Silverfox Thu Jul 10, 2008 11:30 am

Ok, thanks for the advice. I'll keep you all posted on how I get on Very Happy

David
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Post by Guest Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:47 pm

corsair wrote: I did the 'bloke' thing once and just powered into the job and completely screwed it up due to NOT reading the instructions first!!

Typical really!!!! Laughing Laughing

Hey David,
Smile

Good work there mate!
cheers

John is spot on too, that's how I would have done it as well. Fortunately, I haven't needed to do any sort of drastic
hole filling on anything that I've restored, yet!

I'm pleased to see that you are taking the bull by the horns (get it?) on this one and getting stuck in there, good on yer! cheers I can't wait to see the finished result! Very Happy

Pauline
:flower: :queen:


Last edited by Pollyanna on Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:48 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Corrected spacing.)
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Post by corsair Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:06 pm

Pollyanna wrote:
corsair wrote: I did the 'bloke' thing once and just powered into the job and completely screwed it up due to NOT reading the instructions first!!

Typical really!!!!

ooh - nice! At least I play my instruments before stripping 'em down.... Razz


Last edited by corsair on Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:07 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : deletion)
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