Westone Spectrum LX

Hi all,

After acquiring my first Westone guitar last year (an XA1630, Genesis II) and falling in love with it, I've been on the hunt for my second Westy. Therefore, the Spectrum FX, which was my original white whale, was back at the top of my list. I recently came close to grabbing one locally but missed it by that much. Anyway, I just found the next best thing, the Spectrum LX, online, and it should be in my greedy paws sometime next week. Pix will be sure to follow! In the meantime, while most everything seems to be present, including lock nuts and fine tuners, the trem bar seems to be missing as well as the barrel that it goes into. I've spent most of the day online searching for suitable replacements, but this looks like a more complicated affair than I thought it would be. Any advice?

Thanks,
Ryan

Congrats on the LX, they're freekin' amazing machines with lots of tonal options!

As for your trem problem you won't find an off the shelf part, but if you're handy you can make a replacement following the post on our web site courtesy of Forum member Westbone: LINK

If you aren't sure what the original looks like you can see it on my LX resto post: LINK

Hope this helps.

Thanks, Barry! You're always so helpful. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or know-how to cut threads in metal and I don't know anybody who does. 

Also, on that instructional page, it says "get one of these" and "one of these" but I don't know what sizes they are. And for the first one, I don't even know what the part is called. (I readily admit I'm an idiot when it comes to these things, so please give some slack on the leash before you yank it back!)

Okay, so it came today, much earlier than expected! Although no trem bar was present, it does have that nut thingy that I don’t know the name of. So I guess all I need now is the correct-sized bar to screw in there and then I’m done?

And as you may be able to tell from the photos, the bridge is set all the way back so whammying isn’t really a possibility right now. How do I set the bridge so that it “floats”? Ive never set up a Floyd Rose type of thing before. Sorry for all the questions! I’m still learning how to do all of these things!

Will this work?
https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/all-hardware-and-parts-by-instrument/electric-guitar-parts/electric-guitar-bridges-and-tailpieces/electric-guitar-tremolo-parts/6mm-tremolo-arm/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2023-03-gp&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8e-gBhD0ARIsAJiDsaVX64xX7INT1QQ0W7hKabv-wzyiE8bkfJe_rtfXVv9K0g5Ug5BM8iAaAqZ9EALw_wcB

Looks like you have the collar (nut) so that's the hard part, and yes that trem bar from StewMac is the exact one I used on mine so no worries there! It may not follow the exact contour as the original part but it works just fine for me.

The optimum bridge position for most people is to have the plate parallel to the body and floating several mm's above it (The adjustment is done via the post screws).

That allows for both down and and a little bit of up movement. Most people don't need to pull up but the space stops the metal from hitting the wood finish.

As for setting up the bridge there's lots of "how to's" on the interweb but the basic idea is that you are balancing it between the strings pulling it up and the springs in the guitar counteracting that pull. Adjustment is done by moving the screws holding the springs in or out.


Depending on the string gauge and your tuning you may need more or fewer springs. 2 will give a very light touch but may be too sensitive for practical use. 3 seems about right for many and 4 will offer more stability, and 5 gives maximum resistance for heavy strings and aggressive dive bombing.

P.S.
Before setting up the trem you must first of course tune the guitar and then gently "lock" it down with the string lock plates. Do not over tighten the screws, just snug them up. Do not guillotine the strings.

The fine tuners should also be set to mid-postion to allow for sharp or flat adjustment afterwards.

Thanks, Barry. I really appreciate the information. So, you’re saying to tune it and lock the nuts into place before screwing down the trem posts to raise the bridge? I actually tried doing that earlier, but it seemed like it was bowing the neck or something so I went back to how it was. Could have been my imagination. I’ll mess with it more tomorrow. Thanks again!

Actually no, that's backwards! My apologies.

Set your bridge approximately to where you need it to be, then it's a dance to bring it up to pitch and counter the pull until it's stable.

Then lock the strings and make your fine tuning and levelling adjustments. You may need to repeat a few steps until you get it just right.

Have patience, I find that these bridges set up very well and stay put.

Sorry it's been a long day and I'm tired.

No worries! So, slacken the strings, raise the bridge, tune to pitch and lock the nuts, then repeat as necessary? When I had the back plates off earlier, I think there were two springs in there, but I might have a couple of others laying around that I can use if needed.

You'll likely find that 2 springs are not quite stable enough. Quite often there's not enough tension to counteract the string pull and you can end up endlessly going back and forth until you run out of adjustment!

I'd recommend at least 3 which should give you a firmer feel without being too "twitchy". You can always add a 4th one if it doesn't feel quite right.

I actually got it all set up after some trial and error this morning.
Being a complete novice at this, it took me a while to figure out that the reason I wasn’t getting any play from the trem was because the previous owner had blocked it underneath with a screwed-in chrome plate that if you didn’t know any better (and I certainly didn’t) you would have thought it came like that from the factory. You’ll see what I mean when I attach some photos in a bit. Anyway, I removed that plate and loosened the springs considerably and finally got some of that sweet whammy action!

It didn’t need much cleaning, but I gave it a good going over anyway. I’m very surprised at how little used the guitar seems to have been, considering its age. The frets have almost no signs of wear, and the only real blemish is the big chip on the lower horn. Judging from that, I thought the guitar might have been abused, but not so at all. I’m quite happy with it indeed! The only minor issue I have to suss out now is the the high e buzzing out at the 12th fret. Truss rod adjustment you think?

Also, regarding the tremolo arm, I decided not to order from Stew-Mac since, with the $13 shipping, it would have cost nearly $30! I could justify the shipping charge if I had a bigger order, but I don’t need anything else from them right now. Instead, I ordered a cheap-o 6mm arm from Amazon that seems to be the same thing. I also ordered from Reverb a supposedly NOS bendmaster arm for only $6.79 + free shipping, so I guess I’ll find out if it’s the real thing! While I wanted black, that one’s chrome, but beggars can’t be choosers. In the meantime, I’m using an arm that I bought for an old Ibanez RG guitar that I didn’t keep. That arm isn’t threaded, but it fits in there well enough for a temporary solution.

It

Sorry for all the long-windedness, hope you enjoy the pix! Although I really like the candy blue color, it’s very difficult to catch it with a camera, especially on a dreary day like today.

Hey Ryan well done! Looks like you have it all under control
And your baby is in beautiful condition (unlike mine was)

...The only minor issue I have to suss out now is the the high e buzzing out at the 12th fret. Truss rod adjustment you think?

Mmm, maybe, but that's a high fret. Depending on how high it is you might make it go away by adding a tad more relief to the neck. That of course will raise the action which may not be acceptable. A better alternative would be to adjust the saddle height but again, too much and the playing comfort is compromised.

You can easily check for a high fret with something like a credit card or anything about the same size with a straight edge that will span 3 frets. If the card "rocks" the centre fret is high at that point and requires levelling, re-crowning and polishing.

StewMac makes a stainless steel Fret Rocker (of course they do!) which is a great tool if you have to do a lot of this kind of checking

One more thing to be aware of, the saddle profile needs to follow the same radius as the neck for maximum comfort and consistent action.

You can use a radius gauge to identify a neck radius at the 12th fret or if you have a "good eye" you can adjust by looking at the gentle curve the saddles makes and comparing it to the bottom of the fret board.

I really like the candy blue color, it’s very difficult to catch it with a camera, especially on a dreary day like today.

Copy that! If you read my resto post you'll see I commented on the same thing. It's diabolical how it changes under different lighting!

Yeah, I’m hesitant to adjust the neck because the action is already on the cusp of being higher than I like it. Hopefully, I’ll get a chance over the weekend to check into it more, and I’ll definitely start with by checking the fret levels with a straight edge. I’m also thinking of making minor adjustments to the spring and bridge post. I don’t know. I guess more trial and error is in order! (BTW, I did try raising the saddle earlier, but I didn’t notice any difference and didn’t want to go further because of the action.)

I really like the candy blue color, it’s very difficult to catch it with a camera, especially on a dreary day like today.

Copy that! If you read my resto post you'll see I commented on the same thing. It's diabolical how it changes sunder different lighting!

Yes, I saw that you mentioned that too and it made laugh. Diabolical is right! Earlier tonight I was putting it down and saw it just long enough in a different light to think, “wait, now you’re green?!”

You can use a radius gauge to identify a neck radius at the 12th fret or if you have a "good eye" you can adjust by looking at the gentle curve the saddles makes and comparing it to the bottom 

Thanks for the reminder! I normally use a gauge over the saddles and completely forgot to do that when I was working on it today. Adding it to my list as the first thing to check when I get to it this weekend.

Ryan3000 wrote:Yeah, I’m hesitant to adjust the neck because the action is already on the cusp of being higher than I like it. Hopefully, I’ll get a chance over the weekend to check into it more, and I’ll definitely start with by checking the fret levels with a straight edge. I’m also thinking of making minor adjustments to the spring and bridge post. I don’t know. I guess more trial and error is in order! (BTW, I did try raising the saddle earlier, but I didn’t notice any difference and didn’t want to go further because of the action.)

Sounds like your neck already has too much relief (upbow) in it Ryan.
I would strongly suggest you start over.

First add more tension to the truss rod (right or clockwise turn) until you have a straight fret board with maybe a mm or two relief.
Check tuning.
Then adjust your bridge height (assuming your saddles are in the appropriate curve).
Re-check tuning.
Adjust the action at the 12th fret to suit your playing style
Check for fret buzz.

You might get lucky at this point and the problem may have disappeared. You might not.

If you still have a fretting out note, THEN check for high frets.
You do not want to check frets unless the neck is straight, you won't get an accurate result.

If you identify some then mark the area with a black marker pen and then proceed to gently file that spot flat checking frequently with the rocker until all is stable.

The frets then require re-crowning with an appropriate file. Finish with either very fine sandpaper or #0000 steel wool and/or metal polish.

I think you’re completely right about the upbow. It was something I noticed when I got it and before I did anything with, but I’m far from an expert and kind uncertain of myself to accurately read a neck, so I didn’t address it as I probably should have. Woke up this morning feeling quite under the weather so I might not get to it as soon as I’d like to. The weekend might be a wash.

Take your time Ryan, there's no need to rush.

Have another look later when you're feeling better.
 

Okay, so after a few minor adjustments here and there, the guitar is playing perfectly with no buzz at the 12th fret. Man…although getting the LX was well worth the wait, I really wish I had gotten one sooner. It’s really something special.

The LX is a Spectrum.
Therefore it is fanatstic!
Nice work Ryan, now she's truly yours!

Sorry to jump in on this discussion, but I now have a Spectrum SX and was hoping to get the tremolo set up etc myself. However, I don't know what to do with the 'fine tuner' things on the bridge when doing so. Should they be all the way out, or all the way in, or is there a sort default setting for them? This is the only part of the set up I don't really know much about and I can't find any info anywhere about what to do with them.

No problem, Jerry. I’ll give you the advice that Barry gave me. Keep the fine turners at about halfway, that way you’ll have room for adjustments whether the string is sharp or flat. Hope this helps!

No problem, Jerry. I’ll give you the advice that Barry gave me. Keep the fine turners at about halfway, that way you’ll have room for adjustments whether the string is sharp or flat. Hope this helps!

Oh, and please share pix of your SX when you have a chance. Would love to see it!

Thanks! Yep, I'll post some pics soon.