Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair

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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair

Post by Barry on Tue Jan 28, 2020 11:52 am

Ya know, gas is an irritating thing.
And it can cause you public embarrassment when it's out of control.  Embarassed

As many of us know too well, GAS can also be an irritant, but of course not in quite the same way.
Sometimes it just won't leave you alone until you find what you want.

But when you cannot find what you really want, you can veer off into the guitar netherworld! Twisted Evil

Such is this tale.

I am always on the prowl for Matsumoku guitars that I can afford (and that's the key phrase). It's been about 2 years since I found my last local Westone, and having been unsuccessful since I've been trying to satiate the gurgling with other brands that I like.
Still bugger all.

So last spring I bought a Squier Mustang for fun and giggles. But nothing since.
Until yesterday.

I am the happy owner of two US made Ovations, one of which I gigged and recorded with. The other one I have played live. really well made guitars and rock solid sound--amplified. Acoustically, just average.

So when I started looking at Ovations, I hoped to find something interesting. And I did.

Seller's PIX:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Ovatio11
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Ovatio10
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Ovatio15

A nice looking entry-level Ovation Celebrity model in Ruby Red finish. This is made in China and everything is very "light weight" and apparently quickly assembled but I figured it would make a nice little thing to leave out for occasional strumming when the urge hits.
And a good price too! bounce

So what's wrong with it? Thanks for asking.
Um, this:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Ovatio13

The bridge has lifted and completely messed up the action.
On a standard acoustic guitar repairing this is usually straight forward. It's a PITA, but straight forward.

However, Ovations live in a different world.
The overall body construction is different, the bracing is different, and the bridge and its attachment is completely different.
The closest it comes in assembly is to a classical guitar bridge. It sits on top of the sound board and there are no bridge pins. The strings pass straight through the bridge, and there are two small bolts anchoring it to the top, in addition to being glued

In the lower priced Ovation models (and many other manufacturers too) the finish is applied to the top and the bridge is glued to the finish! No wood to wood connection. Sometimes it works OK, sometimes not.

If that was all that needed fixing it would be OK to remove, scrape, clean, re-glue, and clamp the bridge.
But in my case, the guitar is extremely dry and has never been humidified. There's even dust inside the bowl and the label was so dry it just popped off!

There is a large hump behind the bridge caused by its rotation. There does not appear to be any broken bracing but the wood is very light and not offering much structural resistance. Oh, and the kicker? There is no bridge plate in this design. All the stress is on the top and it's up to the braces to hold everything together. Which they of course have not.

I've looked at a number of options, none of which are easy, but I think I am going to start by trying to humidify the wood to see if anything good will happen.

I don't know if the membership is interested in following this one or not. I'll post up more pix if so, but this will not be a quick repair, and I'm happy to entertain options from the learned folks here.

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Post by corsair on Tue Jan 28, 2020 3:17 pm

Hell, yes I'm interested, Barry!!

My first thought is whether you can add some sort of strengthening plate underneath the soundboard, beneath the bridge? A slightly larger than bridge sized piece of three-ply, perhaps?

WWDD? (What would Dan Do?) :-D

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Post by Westbone on Tue Jan 28, 2020 4:49 pm

Glue it and sell it.

Sounds like a pile of junk from your description.

Unless you just want to mess about with it.
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Post by Barry on Tue Jan 28, 2020 5:12 pm

Damian, it was known that it was not a "collector level" machine going in.
Not exactly junk (but certainly not to the US made standard). I just felt like a little project challenge, and I sure got it!

I figured if I could get it into playing condition I'd either give it to my son who's been wanting an acoustic to bang on, or flip it and make a couple of dollars. Or if it turned out OK I'd just keep handy to strum on while watching the tube.

Just gluing the bridge down makes little sense since the hump caused by the rotation makes it still unplayable.

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Post by Barry on Tue Jan 28, 2020 5:22 pm

corsair wrote:...My first thought is whether you can add some sort of strengthening plate underneath the soundboard, beneath the bridge
Ideally yes John, these little buggers are designed to have no bridge plate. A really dumb idea.

Adding one would certainly help but the space available is severely limited by the bracing pattern. It's on the list of things to do.  Rolling Eyes
Meantime I've started intensive re-hydration in the hope that some of the wood will start to behave itself and give me a fighting chance at fixing the bridge.

I'll post some more pix later.

_________________
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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty Meantime, please enjoy this musical interlude. . .

Post by Barry on Tue Jan 28, 2020 8:35 pm

For those who have never heard an Ovation give a listen to Jeffrey Matz playing the beautiful jazz standard, Laura.

His instrument this time out? Why, it's a Chinese made Ovation Celebrity Elite model!



If you didn't know you never would have guessed that plastic could have sounded so good!

_________________
"A little song. A little dance. A little seltzer down your pants." -Chuckles the Clown
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Post by Barry on Wed Jan 29, 2020 11:38 am

Not the best pix (hey, it's indoors, winter and cloudy) but here's an idea of the bellying up condition.

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr10

The flash makes the image hard edged and it was awkward to get the straight edge steady while taking the picture, hence the green tape. But focus on the shadow under the rule and you can see the outline of the domed soundboard.

Here's a better idea of the bridge condition.
That is a business card under there, not a piece of paper! And there is still lots of space above.
The strings were loosened for these pix so you can see the "set" everything has taken is dramatic:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr12

One more:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr11

See that thin line on the surface under the bridge? That is a position mark outline etched into the finish by the manufacturer. These bridges are glued to the the finish, not to bare wood! However, you'll notice that there is no evidence of adhesive anywhere.

Either it was never glued down or this back edge was missed entirely.
The only thing holding against the string tension has been two 3/16 bolts" through the thin sound board. No wonder it pulled up.

_________________
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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty Rehydration attempt

Post by Barry on Wed Jan 29, 2020 12:02 pm

Before I attempt anything drastic, like removing, gluing or clamping any of the wood, I first want to see if I can get this "Sahara" assembly to soak up some moisture and hopefully restore some flexibility into what's left.

I think trying to apply any pressure at this stage is likely to snap the very thin fragile looking bracing.
Preliminary inspection seems to indicate that nothing is actually broken and it's all still glued OK. Just warped.

Here's the plan:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Hydrat10

I placed a small plastic dish on the bottom and put a very damp terry cloth into it. No need to worry about the body since it is a plastic compound which should actually help here:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Hydrat11

I then pushed the whole thing further down towards the bridge and wrapped the guitar body in a garbage bag:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Hydrat12
(I know, I know, looks like a Mafia hit ready for a sleep with the fishes)

Finally, to encourage things more I placed a small plank of wood on top of the bridge then put a weight on it, a small socket wrench set in this case. Maybe about 1kg or less, I didn't weigh it, just grabbed whatever was handy.
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Hydrat13

It been about 18 hours or so as I write this. I'll open it up tonight and have a peek. (fingers crossed)

_________________
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Post by Westbone on Wed Jan 29, 2020 1:19 pm

Probably loosen all the glue and fall apart.
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Post by Barry on Wed Jan 29, 2020 2:00 pm

Westbone wrote:Probably loosen all the glue and fall apart.
You're a real ray of sunshine aren't you Damian?  Rolling Eyes

I suppose that's a possibility depending on just what adhesive they used on the bracing.
Who knows but I'm guessing it's likely a PVA based wood glue of some description. If it's based on basic white glue I'm in trouble. If they've formulated it for moisture resistance (a good possibility) I should be OK.

On the more expensive Ovations epoxy or polyurethane glues tend to be used on the structural components, but the only sign of that on this guitar is at the neck joint which was very sloppily done and shows a lot of squeeze out.

_________________
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Post by Westbone on Wed Jan 29, 2020 2:49 pm

Sounds like a bit of a damp squid.
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Post by corsair on Wed Jan 29, 2020 3:23 pm

I still reckon you're best served by putting in some sort of backing piece under the soundboard, eh! However, yeah; gotta agree that that lump should be flattened out as much as possible... 

I don't think it's a damp squib at all; rather an interesting deviation from the norm, and just the thing to exercise the mind and hands!!

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Post by Barry on Wed Jan 29, 2020 3:56 pm

Cheers John. Yeah, the main reason for getting it was for the opportunity to work on something familiar but quite different, ya know?

This will never give my high end Ovations (or any "real" acoustic guitars for that matter) any serious competition but the goal is to restore it to a playable condition if possible. And learn a thing or two along the way.

And just because it's different doesn't make it useless crap. My Danelectros are made of Masonite for Pete's sake, and I just love 'em!

Music doesn't care what it's created on. Witness Diddly Bo and Cigar Box guitars.

If this adventure doesn't work out I have a couple more dramatic ideas to try on 'Ruby'. Something is bound to work eh?

_________________
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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty Update: After 24 hrs in the sauna...

Post by Barry on Wed Jan 29, 2020 9:22 pm

I didn't take a picture but I can report that the treatment is working!
I did a quick check this evening and the bridge has come down and is now nearly touching the sound board.

The hump is still pretty dramatic but just eyeballing it with the straight edge, it too is down about 20% or so.

Encouraged by this I decided to continue the treatment but up the weight.
I replaced the light piece of wood and tool box with a longer section of wood and two 8lb hand weights that were laying around.

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Heavy_10


That should either flatten the top or flatten the guitar! 
Sorry to disappoint Damian, it's still together. Razz

Film at eleven.

_________________
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Post by Westbone on Thu Jan 30, 2020 6:27 am

Least it's halfway there!

It's in a garbage bag... Roll on Floor Laff
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Post by Barry on Thu Jan 30, 2020 12:55 pm

Droll, very droll. tumbleweed

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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty Oh Ye of Little Faith...Dig It!

Post by Barry on Sun Feb 02, 2020 12:43 pm

Here's a quick progress report after a further 48 hrs under hydration with heavy weights.

Sound board (ahead of the bridge) is virtually flat:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Hydrat15


That nasty hump behind the bridge is definitely coming down. I could not manage to balance the scale at centre and take the picture so look at the right side gap and divide by 2 clown
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Hydrat14


And the bridge itself is slowly righting itself, not much of a gap now:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Hydrat16

I'm very encouraged by the results so far and I at least have a good chance at getting "Ruby"'s voice back!

The next step will be to remove the bridge and reglue it.
From there I have a couple of options, one messy and involving additional bracing, the other less so and a bit unorthodox, involving adapting a JDL Bridge Doctor to flatten and stabilize the top. Thinking

_________________
"A little song. A little dance. A little seltzer down your pants." -Chuckles the Clown
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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty Update & Bridge Screws Removal

Post by Barry on Sat Feb 08, 2020 4:47 pm

UPDATE


Progress this past week or so has pretty well come to a halt because we had a very upsetting situation to deal with.

Our youngest and strongest cat, dear Dexter, developed heart troubles a couple of months ago which caused fluid build up in his chest and made it increasingly difficult to breathe. We've been supporting him and nursing him, up until last week, when it was clear the inevitable was going to happen.

We said goodbye to him 2 days ago. And I my eyes are still red.
I'm an emotional guy at the best of times but losing a pet hits hard, particularly when I am barely over losing my oldest cat (17 yrs) just last August from diabetes.

So, you understand why fixing guitars was the last thing on my mind.
The Eames Zoo is now down to one cat and one dog...and some fish.  Neutral


BRIDGE SCREWS REMOVAL


Some good news!
The several days of hydration have pretty much brought the bridge back to where it belongs.

The hump is still there but reduced, but I am optimistic that it will flatten out a bit when everything gets re-glued and clamped. geek

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair 1_cele10

First item of business before attempting removal of the bridge was to remove the two "bolts" anchoring it.

I made a small indentation in the centre of the plastic dot with an awl to help guide the drill bit. Then I wrapped a piece of masking tape to act as a depth stop and s-l-o-w-l-y drilled the plastic, trying not to bugger up the wood in the process.

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair 7_cele10

The process went a lot smoother than I was expecting and the plug came right out attached to the bit.

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair 9_cele10

Next step, remove those miserable little "bolts".
I scraped away as much residual glue and plastic as possible to expose the Philips head which was ridiculously tiny.
I ended up using the pointy corner of a small flat head screwdriver to dig into the groove and torque the little buggers loose while grabbing the nut inside the very confined space of the body. (This is a "Super Shallow" bowl design, not much room in there at all, especially for arthritic fingers!)

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair 10_cel10

Finally! Out they came!
These are stupid small bolts, about 3mm dia. I have no idea what the hell they were thinking by using these for structural support.
And of course there were no washers either to help spread the tension load. That, on top of no bridge plate in the first place!
Geez!  Evil or Very Mad
 
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair 12_cel10

In any event, they're now out!
And I have returned the guitar to the body bag for another round of hydration, you know, just in case things want to move some more without the screws binding everything up!

Next will be removing the bridge and regluing.
For that I need to buy a suitable deep throat clamp...and some epoxy!  Twisted Evil
Hey it's an Ovation. They have no meaningful dialog with Titebond!

_________________
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Post by corsair on Sat Feb 08, 2020 6:59 pm

Belt and braces, Barry - make a space under there for a bridge plate and epoxy that mother in there too!! 

I don't reckon losing the small amount of bracing you may have to remove is going to make a jot of difference to the sound of this guitar....

No washers?!? That's taking building to a price to the extreme, isn't - nuts and bolts don't work properly unless there's washers in the mix somewhere!!

Anyway.... starting to come right, eh?!?

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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty Getting ready for lift off!

Post by Barry on Thu Feb 13, 2020 3:38 pm

The next step is an attempt to remove the bridge completely so that it can be prepped for a re-gluing.

I had been waiting for a deep throat C clamp to arrive, which it did today:

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr15

Ideally I should use a thinner artist's palette knife for this but it was too far a drive from where I was at the Home Depot to get a $5 item.
Instead I'll start with a new putty knife, the thinnest one I could find, while I was picking up the J B Weld epoxy that I'll use to reset the bridge.

You'll recall there was already quite a separation so it is not difficult to find an entry point:

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr14


Ordinarily I'd remove the piezo and wiring, however, this model has what they call a "super shallow" bowl which is even flatter than my top end Ovations.

There is just no room to manoeuver in there to unplug the lead, at least not without risking damage to everything else connected to the pre-amp. These units are snapped in from the outside but trying to find the release clips to remove them is damn near impossible. And my finger strength and flexibility ain't wot it used ta be!

So I'm just pulling the lead through for now and I'll revisit it after I see how much damage (if any) there is on the bridge bottom. If it's significant I'll have another think about removing it:

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr13

Next up. Find the wife's iron and heat the bugger up! Twisted Evil

_________________
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Post by Westbone on Thu Feb 13, 2020 4:42 pm

Just warm up the knife
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Post by Barry on Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:28 pm

Yup.
Unless I hit epoxy. geek

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Post by Westbone on Fri Feb 14, 2020 2:31 am

or just  poxy... Wink....and heats good on poxy
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Post by Barry on Fri Feb 14, 2020 10:38 am

A pox on yer poxy. rabbit

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Post by Westbone on Fri Feb 14, 2020 2:26 pm

And may the fleas of a 1000 camels descend on your armpits... Laughing
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Post by Barry on Fri Feb 14, 2020 5:36 pm

Thanks I'll share 'em with the dog!

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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty The heat is on

Post by Barry on Fri Feb 14, 2020 5:49 pm

Made a start at trying to break this funky little bridge free.
And as I suspected I'm fairly certain I've hit epoxy!

Just heating the knife wasn't enough to budge it. So the iron is now full on:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr16

I also heated the knife but it's still slow going. And the stuff is gummy as hell when heated:

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr17

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr18

What I'm discovering is that the blade appears to be hitting something that appears to be an edge which I am guessing means that the bridge may be recessed into the finish?! (Ovations tend to have a very heavy finish so it's very likely). THAT should prove to be interesting to try and remove. *sigh* Rolling Eyes

I'm stopping for now because there are other things to do on Valentine's Day. But I'll resume tomorrow with a more concerted effort. Fingers crossed.

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Post by Westbone on Fri Feb 14, 2020 6:54 pm

Stick it in the microwave or boil in a bag.... Laughing
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Post by corsair on Fri Feb 14, 2020 9:38 pm

"Boil in a bag"

Ahahahahahahahahahahaha... do that, Barry!!

Normal service is now restored...

.... you're gonna put a brace underneath that bridge, aren't you?! Hmmm?!

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Post by Westbone on Sat Feb 15, 2020 9:49 am

'king 'ell. Take off a fingerboard with a hot scraper no problem.

You wanna iron the creases outta that guit !   Wink
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Post by Barry on Sat Feb 15, 2020 11:09 am

Youz guyz ain't helping! Head Bang

I'm really flummoxed here.
Looking at the last pic above, that's the point at which I'm definitely hitting something hard, on both sides and along the back edge as well. There is definitely resistance.

The question is, am I hitting a solid lump of epoxy, or is there something else, like being recessed into the finish? Every O bridge I've seen is flat on the bottom and the only mechanical fastening is those stupid bolts.

I'm going easy because the bridge is quite thin at the ends and I'm resisting the urge to get too medieval with the metal and accidentally lever the thing and break it.

There isn't any supplier that I have found for a replacement, so steady as she goes, and I'm not under any deadline pressure here so why rush?

I'll be having another go this weekend and I'll see if more heat is the answer to releasing this little bugger. Neutral

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Post by Westbone on Sat Feb 15, 2020 11:16 am

Presume you looked underneath the bridge with a mirror. Anything there?
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Post by Barry on Sat Feb 15, 2020 3:52 pm

Nope.
Nada.
Nine.
Rien.
Bugger all.  Mad
No bridge plate, just like a classical guitar.

That'll be the next problem to solve as the Fan bracing converges under the bridge making a simple glue in impossible without cutting the braces.  Angry
I may just go with beefed up bolts WITH washers!

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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty At last!!

Post by Barry on Sat Feb 15, 2020 4:24 pm

Well, this thing's been bugging the hell out of me.

So, I made an executive decision to get a much thinner knife (which I should have done in the first place). Off I went to the local arts n crafts shop an got an artist's palette knife.

Nice and thin and flexible with all the appropriate angles and pointy bits needed for this operation.
The result? Well...

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr19

That's it in the foreground, backed up with the original tools I was using, keeping the gap open as I worked.
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr20

As Damian has been yelling at me to do, and as I was originally doing, I just heated the palette knife and with patience it eventually sliced nicely through the crap underneath
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr21

As I worked there were a lot of sickening cracks and creaks, which I was prepared to hear, but I was worried most on the saddle side which was very thin. I was concerned that I might destroy the saddle slot in the process.

Fortunately, no. But there was some tear-out in that area:

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr24

Now it's clear why the bridge failed.

  • Not enough glue!
  • They glued it to the bloody finish!


Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr23

Moral of the story?
It's OK to be a cheep basturd but use the right tool!
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr22

The thin steel made all the difference!
Time to relax.
Exhale.
All is well again.

At least until I reinstall the pesky little bugger.  Pirouette

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Post by Westbone on Sat Feb 15, 2020 5:22 pm

They don't believe in using much glue do they. Hardly covering the bridge properly. No wonder it lifted.
Also on the finish tut, tut.

Anyway you got it off and your living the dream....not talking about Valentines night.... Smile

Good dollop of glue and decent bolt/washers should do the trick.
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Post by Barry on Sat Feb 15, 2020 9:27 pm

Yeah, strictly "Amateur Hour" assembly here eh? rabbit
No clue how to glue!

I know it's a budget model but Geez, it still bears a brand name after all.

Gluing to the finish is a very common "technique" particularly with entry level Ovations 'cause it saves money. And they can get away with it because the finish is typically very thick and well anchored to the substrate.

BUT, you still need to prep the damn surfaces properly with complete coverage! This damage could have been avoided by simply using a brush to spread the glue out to the edges instead of squirting it on from a squeeze bottle. Rolling Eyes

Stuff like this feeds the "crap" image for sure.

But wait...there's more...stay tuned for our next interesting discovery (nothing to do with the bridge)


Last edited by Barry on Sun Feb 16, 2020 12:17 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : typo correction)

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Post by corsair on Sun Feb 16, 2020 5:21 am

.... and sanding the finish off where it attaches!!

Good work, that man!

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Post by Westbone on Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:07 am

The one thing I would watch is keeping the pickup in the bridge on a very flat surface on the body. Wouldn't remove the paint where it contacts.

Any bit of it not on a good flat surface will effect it's signal.

Actually looking at the bottom of the bridge it seems it's ripped the bottom of the pickup slot out when removing it.

New bridge time??? or try it sitting on the body??
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Post by Barry on Sun Feb 16, 2020 11:37 am

As I mentioned in the comment under the picture in post #34 yes, there was some tear-out on the saddle side.

This was one of the few areas that had sufficient glue and was anchored well and I started by trying to ease it off by coming edge on. But it was not responding well and appeared too fragile to push against so I switched to coming in from the ends.

Still meeting a lot of resistance, I decided to continue coming in from the opposite side, which worked. Eventually it just "popped off" as they often do, and unfortunately left some of the bridge behind. Thinking 2
________


The first thing I am going to do is try and carefully slice off those tear-out splinters with a razor blade and glue them back onto the bridge as well as possible before sanding and leveling. That should help to improve contact and avoid filling in any dips and dings with glue only.

Thanks for the suggestion about the contact surface for the pickup. I'm not sure how I can easily remove the finish under the bridge but leave a sliver of it under the saddle. Neutral

That would be ideal but the work involved far exceeds the worth of the guitar. At this stage I am seriously considering not removing the finish, at least not to bare wood.

Clean, level and score is my thinking ATM. Same for the bridge.

I'm going to use J B Weld's KwikWeld steel reinforced epoxy with a tensile strength of 2424 psi together with new bolts and the biggest damn washers I can find.

If that doesn't hold this bugger down well then nuts to it! Razz

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Post by Westbone on Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:41 pm

Do you reckon after all this it's gonna get a belly after a little while. Like it had??
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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty Small correction

Post by Barry on Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:43 pm

Now that I have had some time, I have just been surveying the "debris field" much closer, and upon inspection those tear-out bits stuck to the sound board are not from the main part of the bridge at all as first thought.

Rather, they originally were part of an extremely thin "floor" for the saddle slot. Don't ask me how they managed to machine walnut so thin but they did. The purpose I'm guessing was to prevent glue from squeezing up into the slot and interfering with the pickup and saddle.

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Celebr25

What that means is that the splinters can be safely removed entirely which is good news! The sound board and the bridge can now be cleaned up with relative ease.

The not so good news is that I now need to figure out how to prevent squeeze out from flooding the slot area when I reattach the bridge. scratch
On it goes...*sigh*

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Post by Westbone on Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:52 pm

The saddle slot is part of the bridge.

You might find the pickup is crap if you lay it on the body directly.
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Post by Barry on Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:56 pm

Westbone wrote:Do you reckon after all this it's gonna get a belly after a little while. Like it had??
'Been thinking a lot about that too Damian.

The answer is, it most likely will! Crying or Very sad
Unless I figure some way to strengthen the fan bracing.

The bridge area is currently quite flat but there is still a hump behind it.
I'm hoping a clamping arrangement which pulls the top down together with perhaps something tying in the braces at right angles may do it.

The space to work inside this thing is severly restricted so normal approaches are mostly un-doable. I really need the action of a bridge doctor here but I'm not spending that kind of money of this guitar, and it would have to be modified in any event.

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Post by Westbone on Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:59 pm

Glue it, screw it, sell it.


Last edited by Westbone on Sun Feb 16, 2020 3:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Barry on Sun Feb 16, 2020 3:01 pm

Westbone wrote:The saddle slot is part of the bridge.
You might find the pickup is crap if you lay it on the body directly.
Right. But hey, the pick up is crap anyway! Razz

I'll have to replace the slot floor anyway as noted above so a wood fill would make sense in this regard also.

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Post by Westbone on Sun Feb 16, 2020 3:05 pm

Like I say if the base for the pickup/saddle is not 100% flat you will loose all sound from some strings.
I've had experience of this.
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Post by Barry on Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:48 pm

Westbone wrote:Like I say if the base for the pickup/saddle is not 100% flat you will loose all sound from some strings.
I've had experience of this.
Ditto.
But I've had more trouble with the soft pickup strips like NanoFlex than with these strip-inside-metal-channel types.
They're not the best sounding but they cradle the saddle well and are fairly stable. Neutral

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Post by Westbone on Mon Feb 17, 2020 7:40 am

Glue it, screw it, sell it.

Buy another Westone.. Smile
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Post by Barry on Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:25 am

Westbone wrote:Glue it, screw it, sell it.
Even if I can get this to a playable and presentable condition, I don't know if this would ultimately have much resale value anyway.
As I said at the beginning of this adventure, the objective was not to make money on it but gain a little more experience and have some fun.

If it turns out OK, it will either be a "beater" to have around for impromptu strummin' or for experimenting with alternate tunings, or I may just give it to my son who's been interested in playing some acoustic lately. He has limited space at his condo and is a less than tidy fellow so it'll suit him fine.

Buy another Westone.. Smile
I'd love to Damian, but there hasn't been anything locally for at least 2 years. And no money to buy from "afar".

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Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Empty Worse than Poo on a Diaper!

Post by Barry on Wed Feb 19, 2020 10:59 am

I've started to remove the old epoxy from both the bridge and the sound board. . .

AR-R-G-G-G-H_H!

(Tension reliever. Had to be done) *ahem*
The bridge wasn't too difficult because there was, strangely, so little glue on it to begin with.

But the sound board was a whole 'nuther thing:

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Ovatio16

There is a miserably hard edge of glue, like a dam, along the back edge, which is what my knife was originally hitting in my earliest attempts at bridge removal.

While scraping, the blade caught a ragged edge and chipped out a piece of the original finish. That's it sitting above the anchor holes.
And man, is it THICK!!
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Ovatio18

I always knew Ovation tops were ridiculously thick but geez loueeze . . .
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Ovatio17

After a hour or so of scraping with a blade, followed by coarse sandpaper here's where I'm at:
Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Ovatio19

Ovation Celebrity CC28 for Repair Ovatio20

The glue remnant is pretty leveled but trying to make a dent in that finish?! It's about enough to bring this grown man to tears!

next step? Dunno.



Titebond?
I was starting to think that removing the finish to bare wood and doing a proper Titebond connection was ultimately the best way to go.

That would also give me a long open time in order to set the clamping properly (remember the back is round and the guitar can roll around).
But honestly, facing this finish is a nightmare!

To remove it means I'll need to invest in a set of small chisels which I don't really want to do. Even then, the process of removing it is tedious and time consuming as hell. And I run the risk of chip out, outside the bridge area.


Epoxy?
This was my original plan, and of course the way Ovation, um, glues its bridges, sort of.
The reason the bridge failed was that it wasn't done properly in the first place.

Interestingly, the epoxy stuck just fine to the finish. It was the bridge surface which pulled away. That indicates to me that the wood was not prepped correctly, or at all. The glue residue was just a light smear.

I think I'm going to go with my original plan.
My main concern is that I only have at best, 6 minutes of open time to work with. If something goes wrong there's no going back and  I'm well and truly buggered! *sigh* Sad

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