Considering Adjustable Brass Nut?

Yesterday I was going to rob my Westone of its tuning pegs to fix my current guitar. The Westone died from a busted trem block 15ish years ago. Back then I couldn't even ID it and had no luck finding a new block or full replacement bridge. I decided to look again after digging it out yesterday and thanks to this site I ID'd it as a Spectrum IA and even found a few options to replace the bridge. For now I went with the cheap Floyd Rose ebay knockoff option just to get it going again and will probably need to replace frets and refinish the board since they're both pretty groovy.  

At some point between then and now the nut fell off and in my search for a new one I came across this height adjustable brass nut amazon.com/Guyker-43mm-Guitar-Nut-Replacement/dp/B07KRW6G1Q Seems like it would fit but having never replaced a nut before I'm not sure, or if it would even be any good if it did. Would I be better off buying a standard one and a set of files for about the same price? Any suggestions or links to something that would for sure?

Hello Storm and welcome here.
Happy to hear we've been of help getting your guitar up and running!

Regarding the nut, did you lose it or is it worn or damaged? If not why not just clean it and the slot and reuse it? Use a small drop of white glue to hold it in place (do not use super glue!).

If you still wish to replace it, I would choose either a bone or Tusq.

That adjustable brass thing looks downright "nasty"  
And it is meant for non-trem guitars. On a trem guitar it would cause the strings to hang up when using whammy bar. 

A solid brass nut is also a possibility. Mats used them a lot in the early designs of almost all their product lines. They give a somewhat brighter sound.

How about some pics when you have a minute?

Gota wait a week to post links or pictures. The Spectrum IA has a nut with a locking nut behind it.

It fell or got knocked off at some point during the 15ish years its been stored and moved around. It may turn up eventually but probably not by Wednesday when the bridge should get here. 

Thankfully I found an adjustable model on Thingiverse, made some measurements and 3d printed one last night. I'll find out how it does after the bridge gets here but PLA is pretty hard and brittle so probably closer to bone than ABS.

Right, new members have to wait 7 days to post pix or hyperlinks. It's an anti-SPAM control.

Pictures would help explain the situation a lot easier. I don't know that Spectrum model well at all, but what you are describing is the string lock behind the nut, two different things. I hope you still have the screws and plates for it??

In my experience, any acoustic bridge or a nut that is "adjustable" is usually less than optimum and ends up being a tone sucker. I would still recommend putting a bone or Tusq nut in there.

I would be very interested in how the 3D printing experiment goes however. That technology holds promise for reproducing impossible to get proprietary parts.

Printed nut works fine. I don't really have anything to compare it to other than the metal locking nut on my Jackson. The difference is probably similar to stock vs brass in this video youtube.com/watch?v=sTnxpVJ852k .

Congrats. Look forward to seeing it soon.

Almost forgot to post a picture and here's a link to the adjustable model I used https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3031235 
And now to shim the neck so I can use one of the shorter nuts with more of an angle and not get as much fret buzz.

Thanks for the followup pictures.

I remain impressed with that 3D printing technology. I even recently saw it being used by an engineer who was also a pastry chef. She was actually using it to create complex geometrical cakes and pastries! Unbelievable results, that have to be seen to be appreciated.

Your nut looks good, however, I have my reservations as to the PLA material used. It's still plastic, so it will not give the same tonal performance as the recommended Tusq, bone, or graphite.

According to its specs, it not only is biodegradable(!) but can also deform under heat:

PLA has a relatively low glass transition temperature (typically between 111 and 145 °F). This makes it fairly unsuitable for high temperature applications. Even things like a hot car in the summer could cause parts to soften and deform. (emphasis mine)
--link to source

I'm sure it works, but the question is how well, and for how long? Great little project though.

A Brass Nut behind a Lock Nut not recommended, Brass can Bind the Strings. Your Better off with a Graphite Nut, Tusq is a good brand get a blank and get local repair to make you a new one worth the change.

Also if you cant find parts for original Lock Nut you can replace with a Top Screw 43mm Floyd Rose Nut works fine.