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... and so it begins!!

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G.A.S. man
Mr. Jingles
beavis
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fish
The Chad
grogg
hoax
anaerobe
Iceman
mortarman120gang11c
Westbone
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Barry
corsair
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Post by Barry Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:17 am

corsair wrote:...I'll tell you, these things just beg to be strongly finished; black doesn't do them justice, I reckon...
I think you're right John. They are an extraordinarily unusual shape and Westbone's right too, just plain black really doesn't do anything to enhance the thing.

That said, mine was originally black as well (and buggered up on top of it mind) and the urge to brighten it up was very strong, so I know where youse guyz iz coming from. Here's mine for comparison. The colour reads as white in these pix, but the true colour is "butter cream", a little bit warmer.

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Post by hoax Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:25 am


That's a nice job Barry.

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Post by grogg Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:50 am

corsair wrote:
sarcaster wrote:For the clear are you doing Poly? Laquer?

Haven't decided yet... leaning towards a 2 pack poly, or a marine poly...

If I do use lacquer, I'll certainly keep a log!!

Looking nice.
FWIW I use nitro-cellulose or acrylic (2 pack) on wood as it can take the wood expanding and contracting. Poly-urethane can be too hard and crack. Nitro cellulose was what the man in Fiddes recommended for guitars.
Not sure what you mean by lacquer, arent they all lacquers?
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Post by Westbone Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:12 am

The white on yours looks class though. Not plain old black Evil or Very Mad
Do like the chrome pup surrounds and bridge. Reminds me of the days when cars had chrome bumpers/fenders and trim.
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Post by Barry Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:59 pm

Westbone wrote:...Do like the chrome pup surrounds and bridge. Reminds me of the days when cars had chrome bumpers/fenders and trim.
Thanks. Yeah the chrome had that sort of appeal to me too. I also have one of those 50's style thin Tele straps on it. Seems to complete the slight retro vibe.

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Post by corsair Sun Jul 08, 2012 1:45 am

Here's the thing mocked up; I haven't done with the lacquer yet... it has a few coats to go! It's on the bench for a flatting session...

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I've hit a bit o'trouble, though; a small section of the veneer has lifted under the lacquer and I'm hoping that an amount of superglue injected under the veneer via a hypodermic syringe will fix that with little effect on what I've done so far. White glue will not inject through a syringe and needle.. its too thick. Anyone care to throw their hat into the ring; I'm open to all suggestions!!
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Post by Westbone Sun Jul 08, 2012 10:04 am

Looking good John.

Pity about the bit of lift.

What I do is lift the veneer up with a stanley blade(if it's on the edge) and then with another blade with glue on a corner try and 'push' the glue under. Might have to do it a few times with just a smidgone of glue each time.
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Post by Mr. Jingles Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:26 am

That looks beautyful Corsair..Great work...Very impressive !!!!
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Post by Barry Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:37 am

I recommended, on the Mats site, using a thinner version of CA (super glue). Here's a StewMac reference for you John: STICK IT

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Post by G.A.S. man Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:38 am

Would warming the glue up not thin it out abit..
Boiling some water in a pan with a glass bowl with the glue in .
Would have to be quick to use it ,though it might go off too...
Know it works with paints... Just thought it might help...
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Post by Barry Mon Jul 09, 2012 2:54 pm

No.

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Post by Westbone Mon Jul 09, 2012 3:07 pm

Never used that StewMac glue but it looks like a bloody good idea with the nozzle for getting under veneer and other awkward places.Very Happy
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Post by hoax Mon Jul 09, 2012 3:11 pm

I have actually read that some Luthiers do warm super glue to thin it, though have never tried myself.

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Post by Sgt. Vimes Mon Jul 09, 2012 5:49 pm

My son warms his superglue to thin it out for his model making, I can say 100% it works.....though there are different compounds of superglue and I cannot vouch for all.
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Post by Barry Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:21 pm

OK kids, you can heat it. That does not mean you should. Evil or Very Mad

  • heating can cause a dangerous increase in off-gassing that you can do without (remember, it's cyano acrylate); and if accidentally burned, the concentrated gas is deadly
  • constant heating is detrimental; the super glue can be compromised by the heat
  • heat from the glue causes the parts you're gluing to expand & when it cools, it contracts; expanding/contracting puts stress on the bond
Be aware that it ain't a one glue cures all solution. Many times epoxy is a much better choice.

tip
It actually cures with moisture unlike most glues which rely on a solvent evaporating. To speed up the cure try a blast from a can of compressed air. The cool air causes moisture to condense on the parts being glued and accelerates hardening.

Deep breath anyone?

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Post by G.A.S. man Tue Jul 10, 2012 2:38 am

But will the moisture effect the lacquer thats already on ???
Would thinned down alfatic resin not be better or is there a clear glue which would work without adding moisture.????
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Post by Westbone Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:30 am

No, Don't think we're talking vast areas here.

Just a wee bit.
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Post by Westbone Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:38 am

Just out of interest.

When we were miles from any dentist(in the bush) a cap came off my tooth. Glued it back on with super glue, didn't taste all that nice but it worked for about 4/5 months.
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Post by corsair Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:45 am

I've used it in the scrub to fix dogs that have been dealt to by wild pigs; I also used to carry tampons to stuff into deep wounds to staunch the flow of blood, too!

Got some funny looks from people when they saw my med kit, I can tell you, but it saved 4 or 5 dogs and 1 unlucky hunter!

Back OT.....

That's right, Damian; it's a tiny wee area about 1 inch long by 1/4 inch wide so shouldn't be too much of an issue, really!
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Post by Westbone Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:53 am

Is it that bit right at the bottom near the strap button?
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Post by corsair Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:12 am

Nope; that's just a bit that's catching the light and showing my lack of preparation!

The section in question is visible in the top pic, about halfway between the strap button possie you've noted, and the tip; it's visible as a slightly raised section on the upper, flyaway bout...

Just been playing with it a little; I can lift the edge with a craft knife but nothing I've got will fit in up to the top of the bubble and that includes my selection of hypodermic needles! That stuff that Barry has pointed out looks like the answer to a maidens prayers; thanks, man!!
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Post by Westbone Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:07 am

Yeah, Barry's glue looks the dogs for that.
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Post by Barry Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:48 am

G.A.S. man wrote:But will the moisture effect the lacquer thats already on ???
Would thinned down alfatic resin not be better or is there a clear glue which would work without adding moisture.????
Super glue does not add moisture, it relies on the ambient moisture in the air to cure. The more humidity, the faster the cure. Using the compressed air (with a fine directional nozzle) momentarily increases moisture around the bond by causing condensation. It normally evaporates very quickly, so no worries.

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Post by Barry Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:57 am

corsair wrote:...I also used to carry tampons...
Hey, ya never know. ... and so it begins!! - Page 3 3866759921

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Post by Barry Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:00 am

Westbone wrote:...When we were miles from any dentist(in the bush) a cap came off my tooth. Glued it back on with super glue, didn't taste all that nice but it worked for about 4/5 months.
Interesting stuff this CA glue. Apparently, it has been tested for dental use (maybe not in the bush though!). It was rejected because it fails under constant compression and flexion...as you discovered. Razz

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Post by hoax Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:02 am

Barry

I am getting worried about you. You are beginning to sound a bit too intelligent and scientific, like Grogg.

I think that you might have to drink a bit more hard liquor to maintain the equilibrium.

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Post by gittarasaurus Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:38 am

maybe something like this would help
stew-mac
it is designed for working inside an acoustic guitar, but maybe the applicator would reach far enough in for your purposes
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Post by Barry Tue Jul 10, 2012 1:11 pm

Great little tool, but a bit pricey for a one-off use methinks.

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Post by Barry Tue Jul 10, 2012 1:15 pm

hoax wrote:Barry
I am getting worried about you. You are beginning to sound a bit too intelligent and scientific, like Grogg.
I think that you might have to drink a bit more hard liquor to maintain the equilibrium.
Hoax
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Post by grogg Sat Jul 14, 2012 2:58 pm

John, Thats looking great. Are you worried about a bit of overspill from the glue, I wouldnt?

Hoax, just you wait till Im sober.
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Post by corsair Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:22 pm

grogg wrote:John, Thats looking great. Are you worried about a bit of overspill from the glue, I wouldnt?

Thanks!! No, not at all; concern is getting the glue right in to the very far reaches of the lifted section is all!!
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Post by Barry Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:48 pm

Looks familiar?

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Post by corsair Sun Jul 15, 2012 3:23 am

Very little difference between the Deluxe-V and the 60T; chrome .v. Gold hardware and a flame maple veneer top, as far as I can tell....

Mind you, mine has a gold bridge and saddles and chrome tuners... dunno what's going on there..... Rolling Eyes
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Post by corsair Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:03 pm

Rightio, gang; just an update... slow progress but here's the thing hanging in the workshop getting its gazillionth coat of clear after yet more flatting back.

... and so it begins!! - Page 3 DSC_0021_zps68fcf781

... and so it begins!! - Page 3 DSC_0022_zpse91fffdc

Complete with a little sandthrough and a bloody nick in it...

Anyway, I'm going to complete it from here and damn the tiny flaws; I just wanna play it now!!

That Stewmac CA with the whip tips was just the ducks guts for that small lifted section; good catch, Barry; thank you!!
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Post by Guest Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:27 pm

I love that green. Looks great.

Sanding through sux, but it happens. Can you sand the clear down and just spot fix then lay down more clear?
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Post by corsair Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:30 pm

Not really, as that burst is a custom black with green pearl shot through it.... bugger it all and I was being SO careful!! Ah well... live and learn but I'm pleased with the way it's coming up for all that!!
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Post by Barry Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:34 pm

Lovin' it! ... and so it begins!! - Page 3 1174271126

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Post by Guest Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:43 pm

yup - thats how we learn - I got a small sand through or two on the 390, the 300 came out better, and the next two I hope to be mistake free Smile
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Post by Westbone Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:22 pm

That looks luscious.

The grains come out a treat with the lacquer.

Couldn't you touch up with a brush, just to kind of hide the flat through. You'll regret it, you've come so far.
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Post by hobster Fri Sep 28, 2012 11:48 am

Haven't checked this out in a while John, what a super job you have done! All that effort is paying off, i'm inspired to get to work on my projects as soon as autumn hits and i don't have to work 6 days a week. Man, i'm getting too old for manual labor, i'm tired.
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Post by anaerobe Tue Oct 30, 2012 12:11 am

Beautiful work, John. I have seen but one Urchin around these parts, held by a pawn crook that wanted unbelievable sums for it. But Gosh Dang it you need to stop clear coating and start playing it. Laughing Laughing Laughing The green is very...cool. Cool
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Post by corsair Tue Oct 30, 2012 3:21 am

Thanks,bud; nearly at the "play its nuts off" stage, am just at the swirl removal bit....
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Post by hobster Tue Oct 30, 2012 10:39 am

Yeah man, lets see that baby finished! Very Happy
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Post by corsair Thu Nov 01, 2012 3:29 am

The neck is bolted up, probably for the first time in many years and various bits and bobs are screwed and bolted back together.

... and so it begins!! - Page 3 DSC_0001-7

I'm hoping that the wafer 3 way switch I've got will be able to replace the box type OEM switch..

... and so it begins!! - Page 3 DSC_0003-3

Anyone know where the blue wire on the right hand side of that switch goes to? These are a V/T/T set up eh?


I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, boys...
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Post by Westbone Thu Nov 01, 2012 4:40 am

Goes to your tone pot(neck) middle tang. Just as the one on the other tone.
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Post by corsair Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:16 am

Thanks, bro! About to set to and wire the bugger up....
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Post by Barry Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:33 am

Woo hoo! Getting all (Canada) goose bumples! bounce

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Post by hobster Thu Nov 01, 2012 12:19 pm

Barry wrote:Woo hoo! Getting all (OREGON) goose bumples! bounce
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Post by Barry Thu Nov 01, 2012 12:39 pm

Is there an Oregon Goose too?! scratch

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Post by hobster Thu Nov 01, 2012 12:41 pm

There are plenty of geese in OR, that much i do know. ... and so it begins!! - Page 3 4154827492
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Post by corsair Fri Nov 02, 2012 12:56 am

It's been a hell of a long time coming, this old girl....

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... but here we go!! Just finished wiring it up..

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and have plugged it in for the first time in who knows how many years!! It lives!! What a glorious sound those 45s make!!!

Couldn't resist this one...

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... pointies!!!

More later when the neck has settled down etc., but for now... I'm done here!! Very Happy
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