Washburn RS10v

Bought this a couple days ago, a bit tatty and needed a good clean, the frets were at one time Jumbo, but had been abused and probably filed flat.

Before




and after session with my fret file and micro mesh









The carbonite fretboard is a nightmare to clean probably 25 years of finger scum!....ick
I took all the screws and gave each 9 stages of micro mesh....I now have really shiny thumb and fingers!



and the collie is Bracken, my ever faithful friend!

apparently one of only 1100 made, and contrary to Washburns info, it wasnt made in USA but probably Japan....possibly Korea
everything is original as far as I can tell

Is that a Bendmaster Deluxe trem?

No, I read somewhere its a FR licenced Washburn 600T

I also have 10x6mm Abalone dots on order, as you can see its missing a couple

Nice Collie. Guitars not bad neither

Theres a couple of big chips out of the veneer and into the mahogany on the back/bottom, and I've been reading a little on repairing these using the drop fill lacquer method, now I know most lacquer will eat into the old upon application, my question is: Do you guys know of a lacquer that will not dissolve the old stuff?

Sgt. Vimes wrote:No, I read somewhere its a FR licenced Washburn 600T

Hmm....It seems it isnt a 600T afterall. the only markings on it are as follows: Licenced Under Floyd Rose Patents
does this mean its just a cheap offshoot?



the strings just go straight through the ..umm...black thing!? no need to remove the ball as Ive heard is needed with the FR trems.

any ideas on how to find out its maker?

Fast loader bridge.

Looks like a well made guitar.
Some good solid timbers there. Like

Westbone wrote:Fast loader bridge.

Thanks, This is my first FR type bridge, yesterday I learned to setup/tune the damn thing, took an hour!
its all a bit cumbersome if you ask me

Sgt. Vimes wrote:...Thanks, This is my first FR type bridge, yesterday I learned to setup/tune the damn thing, took an hour!
its all a bit cumbersome if you ask me

Yup! I'd sure be a happier camper without 'em!

Sweet guitar. Dog looking good too!

1 hour for a first FR setup is good going imho.

beavis wrote:Sweet guitar. Dog looking good too!

1 hour for a first FR setup is good going imho.

to be honest it was mostly setup right when I got it, I just had to remove 1 spring (ALL 5 were firmly set and the claw screwed right in) then intonate the bugger

I need to do a couple of repairs to the chips at the back edge, drop fill probably...varnish or nail varnish depends on the colour match.
what I want to know is: after I've filled and sanded down the varnish, I'll need to use a polish, which meguiars product do you guys use? and can I just buy something like this for my power drill?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POLISHING-BUFFING-WHEEL-MOP-100MM-DRILLS-TOOLS-/110847965461?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19cf0db915

Hand,,,,jobby

wont that be a bit sticky for polish.......ohhhhhhhhhhh

sorry, I should have mentioned I want to remove all the swirls from the top, and try and get some of the scratches off from the back.

Use a foam mop and some G3 compound with water. You must keep it wet. Then use Barry's favourite, Meguiars Ultimate compound, applied by hand.

Finish with a good quality car polish and Bob's your Uncle and Fanny's your Aunt.

Hoax

cool, thanks Hoax!

holy crap that stuff is expensive!

Sgt. Vimes wrote:wont that be a bit sticky for polish.......ohhhhhhhhhhh

Ba dum dum! Pish!

Sgt. Vimes wrote:...the strings just go straight through the ..umm...black thing!? no need to remove the ball as Ive heard is needed with the FR trems

As Damian says this looks like a Speedloader so yes, no need to cut the ball ends. Who came up with that fresh hell idea anyway? Really stupid to wreck the strongest (and most expensive) part of the string, try and squeeze the rest in a barely adequate clamp, then pray it holds as you dive bomb the bejeebus out of it!

Yep, sounds plain daft to me, give me a hardtail and a Sharkfin Red and I'm happy!

Was there ever a hardtailed spectrum?

Sgt. Vimes wrote:I also have 10x6mm Abalone dots on order, as you can see its missing a couple

now arrived and looking great, what are your thoughts for glueing them in place on a Carbonite fretboard.......superglue?

I should have 8 dots left up for grabs, if anyone needs em? free of course!

EDIT:

these are the little chaps

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380268674117

Sgt. Vimes wrote:...Was there ever a hardtailed spectrum?

Yes, yes there is!

http://www.westoneguitars.net/guitars/spectrum-series/spectrum-s/

...and guess who owns it?

Barry by any chance?

ahhhhh just saw the post Spectrum S (CAN) lovely, I want a white one!

Sgt. Vimes wrote:

Sgt. Vimes wrote:I also have 10x6mm Abalone dots on order, as you can see its missing a couple

now arrived and looking great, what are your thoughts for glueing them in place on a Carbonite fretboard.......superglue?

I should have 8 dots left up for grabs, if anyone needs em? free of course!

EDIT:

these are the little chaps

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380268674117

Sarge

You use Epoxy resin (Araldite) and you mix in some wood dust from your fret board wood. I do not know what Carbonite is. But if it is black, burn some matches and mix the carbon dust with one part of the glue. Then add the second part of the glue and Bob's your Fanny.

Hoax

Thanks Hoax, My son suggested the exact same treatment, so we sat together and set about it tonight.
I had to grind down the holes a touch as they were bevelled slightly, and used the carbonite dust to mix with the epoxy, and Bob was, as you say, my fanny!

not a perfect match as the 2 new dots are a tad brighter and the 7th fret dot now seems to follow me around the room!.
I was just giving it a little play when my daughter came for a goodnight cuddle and I put the guitar down, catching the mini toggle switch on the kitchen chair...snapping it clean off! 25 years on this axe, Ive had the damn thing a week and this happens!

Sgt. Vimes wrote:... the 7th fret dot now seems to follow me around the room!.

25 years on this axe, Ive had the damn thing a week and this happens!

Not to worry. "Poo" happens.
It's fixable without too much grief and expense at least, eh?

I should think so, just have to find out what kinda switch it is, and find one that looks as near as identical as possible

Sarge

You will probably get a suitable mini switch in Maplin's for buttons.

Hoax

Would you say these are the same?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DPDT-3-position-on-on-on-mini-toggle-guitar-switch-series-parallel-coil-cut-/160769410591?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item256e9a861f

that will work. you can use that mini switch for >> on-on-on << or >> on-off-on <<

check your connection points with a meter before hooking it up. the connections will look a little different than what is on your guitar presently, but it will work fine.

In the spirit of casting pearls before swine, what would be the purpose or advantage of an on-on-on switch?

How many positions did the original switch have?

Westbone wrote:How many positions did the original switch have?

3, neck, both, bridge

gittarasaurus wrote:that will work. you can use that mini switch for >> on-on-on << or >> on-off-on <<

check your connection points with a meter before hooking it up. the connections will look a little different than what is on your guitar presently, but it will work fine.

I do have a meter, but only ever used it to find broken connections, I'm not too sure I'd know what to look for exactly.

in the link there is a picture of how the switch functions.
each column of contacts is a separate switch. there are 2 switches, 3 positions
the red indicates a closed switch
depending on how you connect it you can make it "on" in the middle or "off" in the middle
a double humbucker setup is going to be both switches 'on' in the middle.


a close up of the link shows terminal numbers.

connect terminals 2 and 5 (the center point of each switch) to the output . in your pic, it looks like the switch output goes to the volume pot.
connect your neck pickup to terminal 6.
connect your bridge pickup to terminal 3.


with your meter you can determine which contact is which, if the contacts are not labeled as such.
something to notice is that the closed contacts are at the opposite end from the switch handle.

Thanks for the help gittarasaurus, just installed the new switch, like for like, easy peasy.
Might need some more help with some switch replacements on my Condor strat post...need to get some pics taken first.

now where did I leave those rechargeables?

if anyone is interested in a sale or trade, you know where to find me