Re-wiring a Concord II Bass

Does anyone have a schematic to wire the Concorde II bass with a standard tone control. I'd like to hear it with out or at least by passing the PEQ

Thanks

Any reason why?

As in the center dentent position that's what it'll sound like , in series.

Turned full up is parallel.

Why bypass it?? Isn't gonna sound different.

Reason being that the resistor does have a role to play on the treble side. The bass side is similar to a standard tone using the cap. I'm not sure but this may be similar to the Fender TBX control, which is not a a fan of most players unless it's in a Clapton Strat

The resister is a treble bleed.
Full up will make no difference.
Try disconnecting it from the pot body??

Which version of the bass do you have?

Here's a link.
http://www.westoneguitars.net/basses/concord/

Concord II

Pearlized White

Brass hardware w. PEQ control

The pickups have 3 , on the bottom, connections instead of 2. 5 wires to connect

Two pickups both with PEQ each, 1 volume?
http://www.westoneguitars.net/fixme/wiring-diagrams/

Single set of pickups not a double set.

Version 1 you have


Just follow the Concord 1 diagram.

Thanks, I already tried it. I'll go  go back to stock now to see the difference. I may record both ways and make a final decision.

First reaction is that the stock, PEQ, does roll off some of the boomy bass as you go towards the treble end. With the by pass , the low end stays around  

I'd like to buy another one these and install a stock set of Nordstrands, Lakland or Lindy P pickups and set us a traditional P. This way I'd have both

I bump in to the Westone by means of a trade. I seriously cannot believe the build quality and paint job. I've had Fender Custom Shops and I'll put this bass along side any  " off the line" Custom shop piece. 

Thanks to all for the help.

pbman1953 wrote:...I seriously cannot believe the build quality and paint job. I've had Fender Custom Shops and I'll put this bass along side any  " off the line" Custom shop piece.

 

Test results- I recorded to my phone then copied to my desktop to listen through my stereo.I recorded in this order only changing the tone control - bass all the way down ,center, then treble full. 

Standard P , Fender, wiring-   In this setup there are only 2 distinct sounds. Deep bass and then brighter w/ treble. There's no real difference at the mid point location and up full. 


Stock wiring- 3 distinct sounds at each recorded point.


Differences-

Standard P seemed to be deeper and clearer with the treble full. But the deeper could be an illusion. 

Stock- nice mid point location sound. Kind of a happy medium. 

Has anyone ever played with the resistor to see what changes would make?

I did notice on the schematics that were given to me that there is no mention of the resistor. Did I miss it somewhere?

thanks

pbman wrote:I did notice on the schematics that were given to me that there is no mention of the resistor. Did I miss it somewhere?

Westbone wrote:The resister is a treble bleed...

Likely added by someone else. A fairly common mod.

That's a factory resistor, it's not shown on the bass wiring diagrams for some reason and it's only on PEQ bass controls.
Here's the culprit on a currently being restored Concord II bass.


And the cap. side.

You can see it on the PEQ tone control in this cataloge shot.
Confusing it with a Prestige which don't have it.
http://www.westoneguitars.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/071.jpg

Like I mentioned the centre detent position is humbucking series mode.
Turned fully up it's in humbucking parallel mode.
From centre down it acts like a normal tone.


Just the same as having a mini switch series/parallel but it's a rotary control.

How would the sound change by disconnecting the resistor?

Try it??

For this wiring-

 concord II

I have 4 colors to deal with-

e/a pickup-  red (+) , blue  (-)

d/g-pickup-  White (+).  Orange (-)


I'm just confused where the white and blue go back on the pot.

pbman1953 wrote:How would the sound change by disconnecting the resistor?

Theoretically, you would be able to lower the volume without losing treble response. Some folks find that the result, however, is a bit thin sounding as you turn 'er down. If you're after a fuller sound it might be better without the resistor.

pbman1953 wrote:



I'm just confused where the white and blue go back on the pot.

Haven't attempted repairing mine as yet as it also looks like someone has fooked around with  the wiring.

Not trying to tell you how to suck eggs but didn't you make a diagram first or take a picture?

Well they can only go back in one of two places.

Yes, you're right. Time out punishment for me for now doing the homework. Possibly someone within the forum may know or if anyone knows a shop that knows the connections

Just use the wiring diagram.
Might be different colours but still wired the same.
http://www.westoneguitars.net/fixme/wiring-diagrams/concord-ii/

Yes, you're right time out punishment for me BUT, I think i figured it out, so correct me if needed.

So looking at he diagram I see numbers and the N/S diagram at the right-

E/A pickup
1- red-  (+) north
2- blue- (-) south

D/G pickup
3- orange (-)  south 
4- white  (+) north

So I wired like the diagram and it seems to work. Plus I connected wires  ,outside the guard ,so I could test the resistor in and out of the circuit. In order to not to bother the family I can't turn up to really or test the resistor, but so far success.

Here were he differences mine had from the diagram-

The red #1 north was connected to the lower tone pot center lug instead of the ground tied with the tone cap
The Orange, #3 south, was connected to ground on the back of the volume pot instead of center lug of the lower tone pot
The Blue #2 was connected to the tome pot instead of being tied with the tone cap to ground

I'll report later about the resistor, when i can crank it up a bit-