Blasted FR licensed trem!!

Good evening all!

I am fixing up this Maison guitar, which is Korean (yep I know) and has a licensed FR as you may see in the pic below.

I'm having a lot of trouble getting the action right.. I use a 9-42 gauge and two springs. The problem with this trem is that it doesn't have any screws on the saddle to set the action. The only way of adjustment is by raising/lowering the two "studs". I noticed that if I raise them more that a certain point, the bridge stays stuck to the body of the guitar, as if there weren't enough sTring tension. If I lower the studs, then the action is a little low with all the consequences: poor sustain, bad harmonics, buzzing etc.

I don't know what to do. Maybe someone with more experience with FR and floating trems could help me out?

Otherwise, I was thinking of just replacing the part and was wondering if this would fit/work http://www.guitarfetish.com/Floyd-Rose-Fastloader-locking-Tremolo-System_p_260.html . (knowing the two studs on mine are 7cm apart).

Here is the picture:

Thank you very very much. I hope this is the right place to post this as I wouldn't want to flood this wonderful forum!

You can buy shims that fit under each saddle.
Or get some shimstock from a good hardware store and cut your own to suit, you get various thickness shimstock.
Shimstock is thin brass plate and is quite cheap, cuts easy with your best scissors.

Westbone wrote:...cuts easy with your best scissors.

After which you get battered by yer best wife.

Ok I hadn't thought of that one! I will give it a try. I will have to try to find a way of removing the saddles in that case, there are some allen-key-unfriendly screws underneath...

And what about replacing the whole part? Bad idea?

Thanks guys!

Hello Bevis,

The two pivot posts are what you should use to raise the hight of your bridge. If the back end of the bridge hangs low or touches the body, just unscrew the trem springs cover plate located on the underside of the body and slacken the two big wood screws a few turns to reduce the pull of the springs. Always keep retuning the strings to concert pitch after each attempt to make sure that you get the balance correct between the strings and springs. Within a few goes you should be able to get the correct position for height and balance using these adjustment.

Martin.

Hi Martin,

Thanks for your advice. I have tried that but the problem is that I cannot unscrew those two wood screws anymore. Otherwise they juste drop out. I have unscrewed them to the max... So if I raise those pivot posts to where I want, the springs will just exercise too much tension and I can't compensate by unscrewing the wood screws. See what I mean?

However, I do find it odd that raising the pivot studs increases the spring tension.

It is possible that you just may have a set of over strong springs in the back of the guitar. Spring for these things are readily available from sellers on ebay and local music shops. Get yourself a couple of new springs and try them, on the other hand, all be it very unconventional (and unheard of) try removing one of the springs and hooking up the other in the centre of the block. If this doesn't cure your problem nothing will.

The one string thing is definitely worth a try, as if it doesn't cure the problem then you would know that it not the spring tension that is causing it.

You could try a set of 10s-better tone and longer lasting. Ignore me if you've already tried this-just thinking out loud??!!??

I was thinking of replacing the strings and the springs but I am really a 9-42 type of guy. I might try with one spring but today I succeeded in raising the height a notch without tension issues. Unfortunately, the harmonics while they do come out a little better, don't exactly "scream". Maybe the action is still a little low or maybe the sustain block is to light to give the required ballz. Dunno

This week-end, I will shop around for some brass plate for shims. I will also take the time to try different spring combinations.

--> Martin: you sure are right when you suggest it would be odd if using only one spring wouldn't cure the problem

Maybe get a new/old Westone.

I think we've had this discussion before but about the Bendmaster but the principles are the same... the lighter the strings, the less spring pressure you need in behind the bridge so if you've backed off the trem claw screws as far as they will go, then you need to lose a spring and start again.

However... I don't like doing that because I tend to rest the heel of my hand on the bridge and with sod-all pressure holding everything steady, the damn thing tends to warble so I use heavier strings than most with 4 springs in the back, although I've got to say I've backed off to 10 - 52s with a wound G from the hawsers I was using; the big payoff there is the heavier the string, the more the pickups have to work with and the more gain and balls you'll get from the guitar.

Our resident experts can debunk that if they like, but it's what I've found over 30 years of piddling about with guitars...

Westbone wrote:Maybe get a new/old Westone.

Don't worry, I have one (well only one I know but better than nought).

Corsair, you are right of course and thanks for the advice. Looks like I might have to move to thicker strings after all... But a wound G, gosh, I didn't even think that was conceivable

What's the angle of your neck to body like?
Agreed corsair. I use 11's on all single coils. gives them more 'balls'

Just had a thought ,as Corsair indicated , that only having 1 spring on the trem may make 'in tune' palm muting difficult, but whenever you "dig in" to play that emotive bend at just the right time to make all the girls cry, you may get an annoying steve vai-esque warble as the trem vibrates. This could be fun for about 1 note. Think new springs would be best.

Good luck!

I don't know how to mesure the angle Westbone is talking about. I have a feeling it is pretty "big" though, compared to my strat for instance. But then, it may be the neck that needs a little truss rod adjusting.

I have succeeded in raising the height without loosing tension, guess I found the good in-between on that one. So no more buzzing and the harmonics and sustain come out a little improved. Still the harmonics are a little week compared to my strat and even though lots of things could play a role, such as strings, as it has been said, I feel that it could be the trem that's a little light. Dunno though. But the guitar is set pretty good now!

And I can't stand those "annoying steve vai-esque warbles" either