Bendmaster FT

Rightio, gang.... I have a Bendmaster FT bridge in my hands courtesy of gittarsaurus - arrived safe and sound yesterday, bro, thank you! - and it doesn't have the wee collar that supports the trem arm as it goes through and engages in the sustain block. I knew that going in so that's not the issue, however, I do have a plan in that I shall find a bolt of about the right length and the correct size, and have the bugger drilled through the centre with a 6mm bit. To me, it would appear an elegant solution. There is however, a problem.

The size of the tapped top portion of the hole in the sustain block is drilled and tapped for a 9 x 1.25mm bolt, which as you may guess, is an orphan size and I haven't found anything resembling a bolt in those dimensions locally yet. Still trying, but what say you blokes? Any of you lads got an alternative? Drilling out and retapping is really an option ad the wall thickness at that point is already pretty skinny... Helicoiling down to 8mm??

Does 9 x 1.25 mean anything to anyone out there? I think the closest Imperial size would be 3/8 BSF but I've yet to try a bolt that size to see....

Alternatively, you could remove a section of the block. I don't have any guitars with a FT and can't check but from memory
there is enough room and fit one of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Floyd-Rose-trem-arm-post-collar-screw-/140647573937?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var=&hash=item6674023850

You wouldn't have to touch the base plate.
Same principle as the Deluxe trem.

Oooooh, now THAT'S why you get paid the big bucks! I shall do that, actually, as I have a spare FT sustain block just in case i get a hold of the OEM bit, but what a good solution that is!

Thank you, Damian!

Not sure on this.. I had (Well, still have, but it's going up for sale soon) a Thunder III with this modification - sounded much better with a full sustain block and a bog standard 6mm screw in arm, no collar.

The other alternative is to get hold of a piece of 12mm hex steel and a lathe and make a new part.Don't try mixing imperial and metric measurements on this one, get the right size - taps and dies available at arceurotrade.co.uk amongst others

It's not much of a sustain block, is it. More of a spring holder.
Don't think a bit out the corner is going to affect it that much, with a trained ear...or nose.

Handy to have a lathe.

If it's not much of a sustain block to start with, is it a good idea to cut a chunk off it? Horses for courses I suppose - I found a big difference switching back to the full block, other tastes may vary.

Stick a picture up of the amount you chopped off.

Can't I'm afraid, I got rid of the altered part ages ago. It was chopped up by a previous owner who just cut a straight line from top to bottom taking out enough of the block to fit the trem arm. He should've just cut a notch out to fit the new arm and holder, that would have removed about 50% less metal.

I suppose the removal of any mass will make a difference, but it's hard to imagine such a difference being all that noticeable to the naked ear, eh....

corsair wrote:I suppose the removal of any mass will make a difference, but it's hard to imagine such a difference being all that noticeable to the naked ear, eh....

Not when you've done a direct A/B comparison - in my case it made a distinct difference, the sustain was much better with the full block, and the trem action smoother (I found the FR arm was a bit loose, didn't fit tightly on the base plate of the trem - though that may have just been down to a bad initial fitting)

Alrighty, gang; I have in my hand the spare FT sustain block that I bought from David, and as far as I can see, cutting off the wang bar section isn't really a go-er;





... as you can see, the hole is very. very close to the recess where the wee bar that holds the string claws resides, so while it's not impossible, I would think it's inadvisable. Also, this is a weighty piece of metal - 215g! - and the loss of any of it would very likely have some sort of detrimental effect on the sound/sustain/tone.

So, I'm back to finding a 9 x 1.25mm bolt to butcher to make the collar for the wang bar. Anyone?!

In technical terms that hole is 'miles' away and would not even come into play as regards the string claw pin.
You'd only be cutting off a small corner the same size as the hole hows that going to affect the pin slot, same difference or the tone. What's wrong with ya, ya chicken..

The link I've gave you in the first place.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Floyd-Rose-trem-arm-post-collar-screw-/140647573937?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var=&hash=item6674023850

The collar is 9mm, same as the threaded hole. You might have to just clean up the hole a wee bit.
The only problem I can see is the depth of the hole compared to the length of the collar with the allen bolt. As the 9mm changes to 6mm for the trem arm. You might have to drill this out a tad. That is NOT going to change the tone.
I don't have a guitar with a FT trem so can't let you know exactly.

Bolt the trem post to the base plate and then screw it on, Bob's you uncle .

No chopping off bits. Common sense really.

Oh yeah, you'll have to spend a few bucks on a trem arm, tight wad...

Westbone wrote:...No chopping off bits. Common sense really.

True. You'll miss 'em when they're gone.

All good and well, old people, but I've found some 9 x 1.25mm bolts...



Ha.. yeah; that hole looked a lot closer to the groove last night at about 2330, eh!!

Whatever...

Barry wrote:

Westbone wrote:...No chopping off bits. Common sense really.

True. You'll miss 'em when they're gone.

Nostalgia raising it's head ruefully, Barry?...

Just looking at your 2nd. picture of the trem block corsair.
There's not exactly a lot of meat at the opposite end to the term collar for the claw pin(top E)
Reason being there's not a lot of stress at that point.

Is the trem block a 'block' or does it taper towards the spring anchor points?

Stick a picture up of the whole block will you. I've a good idea on this fix. Apart from the original collar that is.

Sorry this took so long, Damian... we're getting ready to shift again(!?)...

Here's a fix, with no modifacations to the trem block.

This is a 'replacement' for the for the trem collar on a Bendmaster FT & Bendmaster bridge.

The bits that go walkies.





Get one of these.






and one of these






Cut a 9mm x 1 thread on long blank end. File 2 'flats' on flange to accept a 10mm spanner.





Remove nylon bush in block(you don't have to but it makes things a little easier)



You'll have to cut a little off the new threaded end as it will bind with the internal thread in the block.



Use 10mm spanner to tighten into block. Purchase a new Floyd Rose type trem arm and whammy away.

You can insert the nylon bush back in if you want.

No mods to the block whatsoever.







If anyone needs one just give me a shout. This is a Bendmaster bridge but the FT bridge has exactly the same block.

I'll bite; what is "it"?

That looks good, mate... I'm in!!

Elegant! What did you use as a cap to finish it off?

What do you mean, cap?

When it's screwed into the block, there's a little cap on it to make it look pretty that has a grubb screw in it. I assume it's a FR thing?

That's part of the trem arm.

Some have a grub screw some dont.

You can also pop a spring down the hole to give it some dynamic tension.